Acne, whether it's severe or mild, can't be treated with just any skin-care product. To start, those who suffer from acne will benefit from a regular cleansing routine to remove buildup of oil and dead skin cells (see the ConsumerSearch report on facial cleansers).
Next, a good acne treatment with proven ingredients is necessary -- a little trial and error will help determine which ingredient works best with your skin. Experts say benzoyl peroxide is one of the most effective over-the-counter treatments for acne, but it can dry out the skin. Consumers should therefore start with the lowest dosage possible (2.5 percent) once a day and increase in frequency and concentration only as needed.
La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo (*Est. $40 for 1.35 oz.) is praised by experts for producing fast results with little irritation. It contains 5.5 percent benzoyl peroxide and 0.4 percent lipo hydroxy acid (LHA) to target acne with a double whammy. Benzoyl peroxide kills the bacteria associated with acne while LHA -- a relative of salicylic acid -- exfoliates skin and clears pores. Paula Begoun points out, however, that there isn't any research showing LHA to be an effective treatment for acne.
Still, users at MakeupAlley.com are impressed with the fast results of the formula. Many say they saw improvement within a matter of days. Editors at Allure magazine agree. They say, "It calms even the angriest of pimples in three days, and without excessive dryness or irritation."
Experts agree that the most effective regimen for mild to moderate acne is a combination of both benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid products. "These ingredients work together to unclog pores and reduce acne-causing bacteria," Dr. Katie Rodan, a San Francisco-based dermatologist, tells New Beauty magazine.
Proactiv Solution 3-Step System (*Est. $20 for 3-piece system), which includes the Renewing Cleanser, Revitalizing Toner and Repairing Lotion, is one of the most heavily marketed acne treatments. Like the Effaclar Duo, Proactiv contains an effective amount of benzoyl peroxide. The Repairing Lotion contains 2.5 percent. Some users complain that it works well in the beginning but that as their skin builds up a tolerance, it's less effective. Still, there are many who swear by the system as the only product that clears up their skin.
Experts generally agree that Proactiv is a viable option for those who suffer from mild or moderate acne. Paula Begoun, skin-care expert, gives each of the products in the Proactiv kit a reasonable review. Her main complaints are that the cleanser is not ideal for use around the eyes and that the toner is an alpha hydroxy (AHA) product rather than a beta hydroxy (BHA) product.
"BHA is preferred for oily, acne-prone skin ...," she says, "because BHA can get through the oil that's clogging your pores, normalizing the lining of the misshapen pore that contributes to acne." Begoun particularly recommends Proactiv Repairing Lotion giving it her highest rating and praising it for its inclusion of anti-irritants.
Salicylic acid's effect on acne is comparable to benzoyl peroxide. It sloughs off dead skin cells from the surface of the skin and from inside the pore walls. Because of its ability to clean out pores, many experts recommend salicylic acid for treating blackheads, but it is equally effective on all types of mild to moderate acne.
For Begoun, a major concern with salicylic acid treatments is that most of the products do not have the right concentration or pH balance for effectiveness. She says they should have a concentration of 1 to 2 percent and a pH between 3 and 4. We did not find other experts who agreed. It's also difficult to find products that meet this description because most companies do not list the pH balance of their products. As with any other acne product, it may take some trial and error to find the right match for your skin.
Jan Marini Bioglycolic Bioclear Lotion (*Est. $60 for 1 oz.) gets good ratings from Begoun and users at MakeupAlley.com. The formula combines three kinds of acids (salicylic, glycolic and azelaic), which address fine lines and blemishes. Begoun approves the formula for containing an adequate amount of both glycolic and salicylic acid, but she says there isn't enough azelaic acid -- an antibacterial ingredient that benefits acne and rosacea -- to be of much use. Still, she notes that this formula is effective for acne.
Users agree. Most started seeing reduced redness right away and a clearer, brighter complexion within three weeks. A few say the treatment stings at first but the stinging went away as their skin adjusted to the formula.
All three products contain ingredients that effectively treat acne. Effaclar Duo fares better in user and expert reviews. Proactiv works well for most people, but tends to diminish and the Bioclear Lotion can sting skin. La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo (*Est. $40 for 1.35 oz.) is the Best Reviewed pick because of its fast results and little irritation.
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