EmailTypes of bike helmets
Each year, more than 20,000 bicyclists -- many with head injuries -- are admitted to hospitals, according to the Snell Memorial Foundation, a helmet-safety organization. Bicycle helmets are designed to prevent or minimize this type of injury. Since 1999, all bicycle helmets made or sold in the United States must comply with U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) safety standards, which require helmets to provide protection against an 11 mph impact on simulated rocks and curbs and a 14 mph impact on a flat surface.
Although there's a lot of overlap, helmets are often categorized in the following ways:
Sport helmets are intended for all-around cycling use and are often the most inexpensive. These helmets usually have a smooth, rounded design with small vents.
Road helmets are the lightest and most aerodynamic, with very large vents to improve ventilation and reduce weight. Road-racing helmets are typically the most expensive.
Mountain-bike helmets are similar to road helmets, but they're generally not as light and have thicker straps to contend with the extra bouncing and jostling of rigorous terrain. They may also have small visors to keep debris off your face.
Youth helmets often mimic adult helmets, but they are smaller and decorated in patterns that appeal to kids.
Toddler helmets have more rear coverage for added protection, which tends to leave less room for ventilation. Bike helmets for toddlers are usually decorated with cute, colorful graphics.
BMX helmets look very different from other cycling helmets. Some are like a thick, smooth cap, covering only the scalp, and some are bulky, covering the entire face down to the jaw line. Often stronger than the other cycling helmets, BMX helmets have more coverage around the back and sides of the head.
Women's helmets feature more feminine colors and sometimes have space for a ponytail, but otherwise they're structurally the same as men's helmets. However, women's helmets usually accommodate smaller head sizes.
Helmet Sizing and Fit
Not all heads are the same, and helmets will fit differently on round or oval head shapes. People with smaller heads may have more luck with women's helmets, and those with larger heads may have to opt for Bell's Triton (*Est. $35), the Giro Atlas II (*Est. $30) or some of the XXL Louis Garneau helmets (*Est. $50 to $170).
Bear in mind that a helmet protects only the part of your head that it covers. In most crashes, the forehead and top front of the head strike first. Experts recommend buying a helmet that sits low on the forehead, about one finger-width above the brow. If you have a high forehead you may need to look for a deeper helmet or remove the top pads inside the helmet.
Whatever the size or shape of your head, experts say to make sure you get a helmet that fits. A well-fitting helmet should make contact with your head evenly and be comfortably snug, but not tight. Be sure that there aren't any pressure points (parts of your head that push more tightly against the helmet than other parts), as these pose a hazard in the event of a crash. If you feel pressure at the temples or forehead, then the helmet is probably too tight. Most helmets come with little adhesive pads that you can add to the inside to deal with any loose spots. People with small heads may need to use extra-thick pads, and folks with bigger craniums may need to remove all the pads.
Although you can often save money by buying online, experts recommend shopping for a helmet in person and spending the time to get a good fit. The best source is a specialty bike shop with a large selection and knowledgeable personnel. Barring that, there are some great resources on the Internet that show you how to get the right fit, and we've included some tips here.
A wearer's checklist:
Level: A helmet should never be worn tilted back, exposing the forehead. Since the forehead is the most likely site of impact, it's imperative that your helmet covers the forehead. Position the helmet so that it is level on your head. (If you have trouble telling the front from the back, remember that the straps usually come from the back.)
Eyes: If you look up, you should see your helmet. If you don't see it, it's tilted too far back.
Ears: The side straps should form a V or Y under the ears, slightly in front of the earlobes.
Mouth: The chin strap should be snug under the chin. If you open your mouth wide, you should feel the helmet push down on top of your head.
Test: Once secured, the helmet should not move more than an inch in any direction when pulled, and it should definitely not come off. Slide a finger under the strap to make sure it's not too tight. If you can slide two fingers under, the strap is too loose.
Parents should recheck the fit on their children periodically. Children outgrow things quickly, and a helmet is no exception.
Replacing helmets
According to experts, helmets should be replaced:
- After a crash: In most helmets, the impact foam -- which is crucial to reducing the force of impact -- is good for only one crash. Once crushed, the foam doesn't spring back to its old shape, and it may provide less protection in another crash. Even if the helmet looks okay, it may not be safe to wear. If you aren't sure, the best thing to do is to send the helmet to the manufacturer for inspection. Some manufacturers offer crash-replacement warranties, but these usually require you to send in your damaged helmet and wait for a replacement.
- If the foam or shell appear to be damaged: If either the foam or shell is cracked, then a helmet should be replaced. They are already weakened and may not hold up in a collision. Don't forget that a helmet may have to protect you throughout multiple impacts during a single crash.
- If the straps appear to be worn or frayed
- If a child has outgrown it
- Every five years: Over time, the glues, resins and other materials used can affect the liner materials. In addition to normal wear and tear, bodily fluids like sweat and hair oil, heat and sun will also degrade the materials in a helmet.
- If it has been recalled: The BHSI website maintains a list of helmets that were officially recalled by the CPSC (see our Useful Links section for website addresses for both of these organizations).
Shopping tips
In addition to the above considerations, experts say you should look for the following when purchasing a bicycle helmet:
- Make sure it has a CPSC sticker. Although it's highly unlikely that you will find a helmet for sale in the U.S. that doesn't have this sticker, experts still recommend checking for one before buying.
- Try on the helmet. You'll want to make sure it fits properly and is comfortable.
- Look at more than the initial price tag. Some helmets have crash-replacement policies or provide credits toward your next helmet, which can make an expensive helmet more affordable over the long run.
- If safety is your biggest concern, look for helmets that have fewer vents and feature both ASTM and Snell certifications. Bright colors, such as yellow, help increase visibility. The Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute recommends selecting helmets with a smooth, rounded exterior, visors that detach easily and no points that could snag in a crash.
- Ensure good visibility. You should be able to see well while wearing your helmet. If it blocks your vision, the helmet is not fitted properly.
- Decide if you want a visor. Good visors can shield against glare or deflect airflow from your eyes. Some are adjustable, some aren't. If you don't like visors, you can save some money by buying a model that doesn't have one.
- More vents mean a cooler head. Look for a good combination of front vents that cool and rear vents that allow air to exit. V-shaped vents are most effective. The downside to a lot of vents is that there is less helmet to protect you, and sometimes there's also increased wind noise.
- Evaluate the fit adjustment system. Check for easy adjustment and a secure hold. A helmet that can be easily adjusted while riding will be more comfortable and convenient.
- Buy a helmet that you'll wear. A helmet sitting in a closet does little good when your head is on its way to the pavement. Experts agree that any helmet is better than no helmet.
About bike helmet safety standards
In the U.S., the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) standard is the benchmark. According to federal law, all bicycle helmets made or sold in the U.S. since 1999 should conform to it and bear a sticker affirming it. The CPSC is not the only standard, but if you are overwhelmed by all the acronyms, this is the main one you need to remember.
The American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) maintains safety standards on a number of different products, including bicycle helmets. It's a voluntary standard and is self-certifying, meaning that a manufacturer can claim to meet ASTM requirements without undergoing any testing. The Snell Memorial Foundation maintains safety standards on a number of different helmets, including those for bicycles. In order to be Snell-certified, a model has to be submitted to Snell for extensive testing and follow-up testing, and the manufacturer has to pay high testing fees. Snell is universally regarded as being the toughest standard, thought it does have more than one level: the B-90, which was issued years ago, and the more recent B-95.
According to experts, the CPSC, ASTM and Snell B-90 standards are comparable. The Snell B-95 standard is tougher, but few models have been tested with it.
Longtime bicyclists may remember an American National Safety Institute (ANSI) standard. The ANSI Z90.4 standard came out in 1984 and was helpful for awhile, but it eventually lapsed and was declared obsolete in 1995. In 2003, for documentation purposes (because by then ANSI was cited in some helmet laws) ANSI adopted the ASTM standard as its own. For all practical purposes, the ANSI standard is considered defunct.
It is also worth noting that different sports require helmets that conform to different standards. A helmet made to protect you on a bicycle may be a liability in another sport, such as horseback riding. Some bike helmets have dual certification for cycling and skateboarding.