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Chocolate Truffles
French and American-style truffles
Experts say that unlike American-style truffles, French truffles are rolled by hand and quickly dipped in chocolate or dusted with cocoa powder, which gives them a handmade appearance. American-style chocolate truffles are poured into molds, from which they emerge shiny and hard-shelled. Connoisseurs like both, but many find French truffles more sensual, perhaps because they melt on contact with the lips rather than breaking into pieces when you bite into them.
Reviewers say that you can buy generously-sized truffles at a reasonable price from Wisconsin's Candinas (*est. $33 for 25 truffles), but the tradeoff is that you can't choose your flavors, which may include hazelnut, caramel or liqueur, among others. Unlike most makers of high-end chocolates, Candinas does not provide a guide to the chocolates in each box (the company says this is because the flavors change daily). Reviews say that Candinas' truffles, which come in milk or dark chocolate, are smooth, with hints of butter and cream. Unlike cocoa-dusted French truffles, they are covered in a thin chocolate shell. Although boxes can be customized, these chocolates are not recommended for those with nut allergies, as the company cannot guarantee that a particular box will not contain nut fragments. The boxes themselves are made of sturdy cardboard, with a cheery, modern design.
Experts agree that La Maison du Chocolat's truffles (*est. $42 for 28 pieces) are among the best truffles available at any price. La Maison took top honors in Slate's test of eleven chocolate boxes. Slate's YiLing Chen-Josephson describes the brown box the chocolates came in as being "nice enough to pass on to the grandkids," and the chocolates themselves as sophisticated and evocative. Vogue's critic considers La Maison's chocolates to be the best French-style bonbons available in the U.S., with a perfect balance between chocolate and "subtle" flavorings. NPR's testers like these chocolates but question whether they are worth their high price.
With their earthy appearance, XOX hand-rolled chocolate truffles (*est. $30 for 30 truffles) exemplify the French style. David Rosengarten says that the fillings are "well-harmonized" and "super-dark," with flavors that include Earl Grey, bitter orange and caramel. Reviewers agree that these are superb truffles at an easy-to-swallow price. XOX offers a variety of brightly-colored gift boxes, which are topped with butterflies or bows.
Like La Maison du Chocolat, Richart and Michel Cluizel are also French chocolatiers. Slate's testers didn't enjoy Richart's chocolates (*est. $72 for 25 pieces); YiLing Chen-Josephson describes them as having a "toothpaste-like consistency" and a "fruitiness that overwhelms the chocolate." NPR's test testers found Michel Cluizel's pricey chocolates (*Est. $55 for 10 pieces) to be "good, but nothing spectacular." Candinas and XOX truffles are a better value.