Choosing cookware: What to know before you buy

Stainless-steel and nonstick pans each have their advantages and disadvantages. Although cookware is made from a variety of materials, professional cooks tend to prefer stainless steel with an aluminum core for most kitchen jobs. This combination distributes heat uniformly, allows for browning and won't react with acidic foods. Because stainless-steel isn't nonstick, more fat or oil is needed to prevent foods from clinging (some cooks might consider this a drawback). Nonstick cookware isn't as versatile, but most experts agree that it's good to have one or two nonstick skillets for cooking foods that tend to stick, such as eggs.

Many home cooks prefer the convenience and easy cleanup of traditional nonstick pans, which are coated with Teflon (made by DuPont) or a generic equivalent. If you rarely cook on high heat and don't mind replacing your cookware every few years, inexpensive nonstick cookware might be a better bet. However, traditional nonstick cookware has a few drawbacks: The coating on nonstick pans tends to wear off, scratch and lose its effectiveness, usually after a year or two. These coatings have also received media attention in recent years because of some of the chemicals used in their manufacture. As a result, several manufacturers are producing alternative nonstick cookware sets that don't use perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) or polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), the two chemicals at the heart of the debate.

Here's what experts suggest looking for when buying a cookware set:

  • Choose cookware pieces you'll use. One problem with many cookware sets is that you may not need all the pieces included in the set. Most pieces can be purchased separately, and may cost less than an entire set. Experts say the most useful pieces to have are a 10-inch nonstick skillet, a deep-sided 12-inch skillet or saute pan, a 2-quart covered saucepan, a Dutch oven and a large stockpot.
  • Watch your weight. As a rule, heavier cookware tends to conduct heat better than lighter, thinner metal. However, weightier pots are harder to maneuver when full. Look for something that feels solid, but not unmanageably heavy.
  • Consider cleanup. Although some cookware is dishwasher-safe, experts generally say hand washing will keep your pans in better shape. If you plan to use a dishwasher, read the fine print carefully to make sure your cookware can be safely cleaned this way.
  • Look at the lids. Snug-fitting lids will help hold in moisture. Also, each lid should have a heatproof knob to prevent burns. Some chefs prefer stainless-steel lids to glass, but many consumers prefer glass because they like to keep an eye on the cooking process.
  • Check the handles. A good handle should be sturdy, heatproof and easy to grip. Handles held to the pot with rivets are much sturdier than those that are glued or screwed on. Silicone-coated handles are comfortable to hold, but they can't withstand oven temperatures, so don't choose these for any pan that needs to go from the stove to the oven.

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