Nonstick Cookware

The Teflon debate rages on

Although most chefs prefer uncoated cookware for most applications, many users prefer the convenience of nonstick pans. Most nonstick cookware uses a chemical coating called Teflon (or a generic, chemically similar equivalent). The major component of these nonstick coatings is a chemical called polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). Although PTFE is normally inert, when pans are heated to more than 500 degrees Fahrenheit, PTFE can produce toxic fumes that are deadly to birds and can induce flu-like symptoms in humans. For this reason, experts say you should avoid using nonstick cookware on anything higher than medium heat, and you should be careful not to let an empty pan sit over a flame. You should also avoid keeping pet birds in the kitchen. ConsumerReports.org editors tested the air after overheating pans to more than 500 degrees Fahrenheit and say they weren't convinced that PTFE emissions were strong enough to cause concern. Still, it's an issue that concerns many people.

Another chemical of concern is perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), a processing agent that's been linked to birth defects in animals. Although the jury is out on whether PFOA is dangerous to humans, and indeed whether PFOA is present in significant levels in finished nonstick cookware, it's still enough of a concern that the Environmental Protection Agency has asked companies to eliminate the use of PFOA by 2015.

For customers who are concerned about these two chemicals, there are now several brands of nonstick cookware that don't use PFOA and/or PTFE. On average, reviewers find the quality of this alternative nonstick cookware doesn't match the performance of Teflon-based cookware. However, some brands do reasonably well in reviews.

Traditional nonstick cookware

Reviewers at Cook's Illustrated say that overall, Teflon and its equivalents perform better than the new eco-friendly coatings. However, they also note that all nonstick surfaces will eventually degrade and flake off. For that reason, experts say nonstick cookware of any type won't last a lifetime -- one reason you might consider choosing budget nonstick over a luxury brand such as Swiss Diamond Cookware (*Est. $450 for a 10-piece set) . Swiss Diamond nonstick cookware is made without PFOA, but its nonstick coating does contain PTFE.

However, unlike other nonstick cookware we've seen, it incorporates real diamond crystals into its nonstick surface -- a feature that Swiss Diamond says makes it "virtually indestructible." The company also says its nonstick diamond surface is dishwasher-safe and can be used with metal utensils, unlike most nonstick pans. Professional tests support this claim to some extent; in three separate tests, Swiss Diamond's nonstick surface holds up very well. This cookware also gets very good marks for overall performance. Its surface appears to be truly nonstick, and the pans distribute heat very well.

The 30-plus user reviews for Swiss Diamond cookware at Amazon.com are mostly positive. However, several users dispute the company's durability claims, saying the coating scratches easily and wears off over time like any other brand. Also, multiple users complain that Swiss Diamond does not honor its limited lifetime warranty (though others note that they had no problem). When they tried to return damaged pans, users say the company insisted the pans had been abused and refused to replace them. Another reviewer writes of receiving an e-mail from the company saying the warranty "does not cover stains, discoloration, scratch marks, or dents." Although this brand gets more recommendations than any other, its high price and reports of iffy customer service make it hard to recommend.

Another pricey brand, Anolon Advanced Cookware (*Est. $300 for a 10-piece set) , gets the strongest combination of reviews from professionals and users. This nonstick cookware is made of hard-anodized aluminum with a Teflon-type coating. It performs very well in one comparison test, earning high marks for its cooking performance and durability. Good Housekeeping names it one of the best brands of nonstick cookware on the market, giving it an A grade and praising its even heating and easy cleanup.

Users at Macys.com and Amazon.com support these claims, adding that Anolon Advanced is "truly no stick." Some users wish it could be washed in the dishwasher, although most agree that it cleans up pretty easily by hand. We also saw fewer complaints about durability with this brand than with any other nonstick cookware. Only one user at Macys.com says the coating is wearing off, and that's after four years of regular use. This cookware is backed by a limited lifetime warranty for "normal household use," although overheating the pans or using cooking sprays will void the warranty.

Calphalon Contemporary Nonstick Cookware (*Est. $450 for a 12-piece set) gets the same number of recommendations from professional reviewers as does the Anolon Advanced line, but user feedback does not support the professional results.

If you'd rather not invest a lot of money in nonstick cookware that may not last, user reviews point to Rachael Ray Hard-Anodized Cookware (*Est. $170 for a 10-piece set) as the best budget brand. Made from anodized aluminum with a nonstick coating, glass lids and silicone handles, this cookware is oven-safe to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. However, like most nonstick cookware, it isn't dishwasher-safe, though several retail sites misleadingly indicate that the cookware can be put in the dishwasher. There is a newer line of Rachael Ray-branded nonstick pots and pans -- the Rachael Ray Hard Anodized II Nonstick Cookware (*Est. $150 for a 10-piece set) -- that is dishwasher safe.

We found far fewer reviews from professionals and consumers about this cookware. We found one professional review of the Rachael Ray Hard-Anodized Cookware, courtesy of Good Housekeeping. The line receives generally positive remarks, thanks to its easy-to-clean surface, even distribution of heat and stick-free surface. Additionally, the line gets high overall ratings from more than 500 users on Amazon.com and Cooking.com. Users say its nonstick coating works well and cleans up easily, and the pans heat quickly and evenly. We found some complaints about durability, particularly regarding the 8- and 10-inch pans,, with users saying that the outer finish, as well as the nonstick coating, wears off. A few users also report warping of the pan bottoms and rusting of the metal edges on the lids. Overall, though, owners consider this nonstick cookware set a good value.

Eco-friendly nonstick cookware

In response to the health concerns about PTFE, some manufacturers are offering alternative nonstick cookware with ceramic or silicone coatings. According to the editors of Cook's Illustrated magazine, these "green" pans don't perform as well as Teflon-coated cookware -- at least not yet. They find that ceramic coatings are very brittle and not very good at retaining heat. A sprayed-on layer of silicone holds up and performs better than ceramic in their tests, but not as well as Teflon. However, in other professional tests, some brands of PTFE-free cookware do quite well.

The top-rated alternative nonstick cookware brand overall is Scanpan Classic Cookware (*Est. $500 for an 11-piece set) , which is not included in the tests done by Cook's Illustrated. However, it has been tested by two other professional publications, and both say its overall performance is excellent. Made in Denmark, Scanpan cookware uses a ceramic-based nonstick coating that is PFOA- and PFTE-free. It is also dishwasher-safe and oven-safe to 500 degrees Fahrenheit. In professional tests, Scanpan Classic cookware is rated excellent for heat distribution, very good for ease of cleanup and very good to excellent for the durability of the nonstick surface. The high price is a mark against Scanpan, although it does carry a limited lifetime warranty.

We did not find many as many user reviews for Scanpan cookware sets as we did for more traditional nonstick options. Still, the 11-piece set gets decent feedback from about 25 users at Amazon.com. The set receives an average 3.5 out of 5 stars (lower than either of our top recommended stainless steel or Teflon-coated cookware sets). Owners seem to be split, with some saying that pans are "impressive," keep food from sticking and are a pleasure to use; others are far more critical in their reviews. Several reviewers say that the cookware performs nicely for the first few months, but the coating begins to flake after just a few months of regular use. Others report that their pans still in stellar condition after many years of use. Either way, it appears that those who sought to replace damaged pans through the Scanpan limited warranty were largely disappointed, saying that the company refused to replace the pans.

EarthPan is another line of alternative nonstick cookware. Editors at Cook's Illustrated say its silicone polymer coating is longer-lasting than ceramic but not as durable as traditional nonstick. It's also oven-safe to 600 degrees Fahrenheit and can stand up to metal utensils. EarthPan Hard Anodized Cookware (*Est. $170 for a 10-piece set) gets very good scores in one professional review, and a skillet from this line outperforms most competitors in another hands-on test. Another professional review from Good Housekeeping recommends this line of cookware, giving it an A rating. The set loses points for the nonstick surface, which reviewers say "isn't as slick as other cookware." However, user ratings for EarthPan cookware are mixed. In more than 150 reviews at Amazon.com, it earns an average score of 3.5 stars out of 5. It falls prey to several of the same drawbacks that plague Scanpan's selection of eco-friendly cookware. Although users say the nonstick surface performs well and is easy to clean, many observe that it begins to wear off after a few months. We also saw complaints that food sticks or burns and that it's hard to get pans replaced under warranty.

Another EarthPan line, the EarthPan II, is cheaper (*Est. $130for a 10-piece set) . The more budget-friendly line is rated slightly higher by Good Housekeeping Institute than its sister line. It earns praise for its even distribution of heat and easy release of food. There are far fewer user reviews for this less expensive line. The nearly 50 or so reviews we found on Amazon.com are mixed. While some users praise the pans as attractive, lightweight and "absolutely nonstick," others complain that the nonstick coating begins to wear off in as little as four weeks.

Most cookware lines that fall into the "eco-friendly nonstick" category appear to have many of the same flaws. We did find a relatively recent review from Delish.com which praises the slightly pricier Bialetti Aeternum Cookware (*Est. $170 for an 8-piece set) . The feedback given on this cookware is brief and makes it difficult to draw conclusions.