Cookware Reviews

Most cookware sets fall into one of two categories: traditional (usually stainless steel with an aluminum core) and nonstick. Each has its pros and cons, but experts prefer traditional stainless cookware for most uses. That's because stainless-steel cookware wrapped around an aluminum core (or "clad") heats evenly and does a superior job of browning food. On the down side, it can be harder to clean, and foods such as eggs are likely to stick without the added fat of oil or butter. Stainless cookware can also scratch or become discolored when heated to temperatures beyond 500 degrees Fahrenheit.

While experts most frequently recommend stainless-steel cookware, many home cooks prefer nonstick cookware, which prevents foods from clinging so you can cook with less fat or oil. However, nonstick coatings are a drawback when you want food to stick (to create the pan crust known as fond that experts say is the key to great flavor in some dishes). Nonstick cookware also isn't as durable as stainless steel. Its coating tends to wear off, although some brands hold up better than others. Traditional nonstick coatings, such as Teflon, are made chiefly of a substance called polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). This chemical -- along with a second chemical called perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), which is used in producing Teflon -- is the subject of health and environmental concerns. Though most scientists say nonstick cookware is perfectly safe when used correctly, a growing number of manufacturers are making nonstick cookware with alternative coatings that avoid the use of PFOA and/or PTFE. These alternative coatings are typically silicone- or ceramic-based. So far, however, the performance of these new nonstick cookware sets is hit or miss.

Overall, our best source of cookware reviews is Cook's Illustrated magazine. Its editors test complete cookware sets and separately evaluate nearly every type of pot and pan. Editors say the ideal cookware set would include a 12-inch traditional skillet, a 10-inch nonstick skillet, a 12-inch cast-iron skillet for frying and searing, 2- and 4-quart covered saucepans, a 6- or 7-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven and a large stockpot. However, none of the cookware sets we found included both a Dutch oven and a 12-inch skillet. ConsumerSearch covers skillets and Dutch ovens in separate reports.

Another helpful source, ConsumerReports.org, rates 35 stainless-steel and nonstick cookware sets, including some made with eco-friendly coatings. Editors test for even heating in skillets by cooking pancakes on a gas range. They also evaluate each set for ease of cleaning and handle design. Nonstick cookware is rubbed with steel wool to gauge durability. We also consulted Choice magazine, an Australian consumer publication. Their tests of nonstick pans and saucepans are similar to those conducted by ConsumerReports.org. However, some of their recommended products are not available in the United States. Good Housekeeping  reviews 35 cookware sets. Cookware receives a letter grade (with pluses and minuses). However, there are no direct comparisons among the cookware, and no details about testing methods. Eight models do receive an A and are the top selection by reviewers.

Although few other cooking publications perform in-depth cookware reviews, there are some one-off or smaller reviews in The New York Times, Wall Street Journal, Food & Wine magazine and Bon Appetite magazine. These publications tend to be somewhat unclear about testing and rating methods, and they test a smaller number of models. TheKitchn.com, a popular cooking website, also includes some rather detailed single reviews of popular cookware.

For additional insights about durability, heating time and food release, we turned to owner reviews at Amazon.com, Cooking.com and Macys.com. On these sites, some celebrity chef cookware sets -- most notably Rachael Ray's -- are among the top-rated brands. Users also tip us off to problems with some popular cookware sets, especially nonstick ones.