Espresso Machine Review

Testing espresso machines

Espresso is big business, as witness the myriad Starbucks, Dunkin' Donuts and McDonald's outlets hawking cappuccinos, lattes and americanos. But for true aficionados, the best espresso isn't found at a chain store, it's made at home.

Of all the publications that review home espresso machines, Australian publication Choice magazine tests the largest number (19 manual or semi-automatic espresso makers and nine automatic ones). Editors rate each on taste, ease of use, features, frothing ability and build quality. New Zealand's Consumer magazine rates 10 manual and semi-automatic espresso makers and six automatic ones. Editors also test espresso machines against uniform criteria, and they alone test for temperature consistency between shots of espresso. Although these two sources offer the most thorough evaluations we found during our research, most of the tested espresso machines aren't available in the U.S., which limits these reviews' usefulness.

CNNMoney.com tests five well-known espresso machines for ease of use, taste and ease of cleaning. Each of the machines is then given an overall grade. CoffeeGeek.com is also an outstanding source for detailed reviews, though not quite as comprehensive as those at Choice or Consumer magazines, but all of its tested espresso makers are available in the U.S. Editors provide quick looks at new machines, as well as lengthier reviews of time-tested models like the Rancilio Silvia (*Est. $700). Editors often pit the machine they're testing against costlier espresso machines, which enables them to comment on value. CoffeeGeek.com also allows owners to post reviews, and the owner comments here are usually more insightful than those at general-interest sites such as Epinions.com and Amazon.com. Comments on long-term reliability are particularly useful. Owners also provide tips for various machines to boost espresso quality.

ConsumerReports.org's latest report covers just seven espresso machines, and highly regarded brands such as Breville, Solis, Gaggia and Rancilio aren't included at all. We're disappointed that Cook's Illustrated magazine has not tested espresso machines since 1996. In the intervening years, editors have tested a single stovetop cappuccino maker, the Bialetti Mukka Express Stovetop Cappuccino Maker (*Est. $80), which is a close relative of the traditional moka pot. The Mukka brews espresso and steams milk simultaneously. Editors report that it does a decent job with lattes, but say you shouldn't use it to brew cappuccino.

Despite the somewhat inconsistent espresso machines reviews we found, experts generally agree that $200 is the baseline price for a quality espresso maker. Several models costing less just don't make the grade. Making espresso requires steam, hot water and pressure -- elements that can quickly damage units made with less expensive, lower-grade plastics and less durable parts.

We read mixed reviews for two entry-level, pump-driven espresso machines, the Krups XP4030 (*Est. $120) and XP4050 (*Est. $200) at CoffeeGeek.com and Amazon.com. The XP4050 doesn't outperform others in professional tests, either; in tests at CNNMoney.com, its steam wand broke during the review process. The Krups XP4030 is said to have leaky seals and also has a steam wand that can detach from the machine during frothing -- a problem that's both messy and potentially dangerous. Many owners report that the Krups XP4050 espresso machine is noisy and has durability issues.

Finally, experts agree that you shouldn't even consider an inexpensive steam-driven espresso machine. Only pump espresso machines make real espresso, say experts. Steam-driven machines are incapable of brewing true espresso because water is forced through coffee grounds at only 1 to 3 bars of pressure, far less than the 9 bars of pressure required to make espresso. What you end up with, according to most experts, is strong coffee rather than espresso. If you're just after strong coffee, you should instead consider a moka pot like the Bialetti Moka Express (*Est. $20) or a French press, both of which are far less expensive than even a cheap espresso machine.