Types of miter saws

Manual miter saws are still used in picture framing and by model makers, but the powered miter saws covered in this report are much more popular for woodworking and home improvement projects. These are mounted on a workbench or stand. You clamp the wood to the miter saw's table or to a back fence, then set the miter angle, which rotates the blade so it's angled across the board.

A simple chop saw or cut-off saw can cut a board straight across or at an angle. However, experts say most people will be happier with a compound miter saw, which can also tilt the blade to bevel the cut; it's useful for molding. The least expensive miter saws tilt the blade only to one side; they're called single-bevel miter saws. To cut another board to make a perfect joint in molding, you have to swing the board around instead of adjusting the saw. Most reviews prefer the convenience of a double-bevel miter saw (also called dual-bevel miter saws), which tilts in both directions.

For cutting wider boards, sliding compound miter saws allow the blade assembly to slide forward instead of staying in one position. However, the rails built into a sliding miter saw give the whole saw a larger footprint, and sliding miter saws tend to be quite heavy. Since they have more moving parts, they're often a little less sturdy as well.

The most popular compound miter saws come in four basic combinations of size and type:

  • 10-inch compound miter saw (*Est. $100 to $250): This type is lightest and easiest to take to a job site, but all are single-bevel (meaning they tilt one way only) and can only crosscut lumber up to 2-by-6 straight across, or 2-by-4 at a 45-degree miter.
  • 12-inch compound miter saw (*Est. $200 to $700): This type of saw is relatively compact and can crosscut up to nominal 2-by-8 lumber, or 2-by-6 at a 45-degree miter. It can cut fairly tall molding vertically since the blade is 2 inches wider. These are larger and heavier, averaging 50 pounds. The big blades cut faster but are more apt to wobble a bit, sacrificing some precision, but you can get a double-bevel miter saw in this size for extra convenience.
  • 10-inch, sliding compound miter saw (*Est. $425 to $1,300): A 10-inch sliding compound saw can crosscut up to nominal 2-by-12 lumber, or 3-by-8 lumber at a 45-degree miter. However, sliding compound saws weigh about as much as 12-inch compound miter saws, offer less vertical capacity and require a deeper workbench.
  • 12-inch, sliding compound miter saw (*Est. $280 to $700): Larger sliding compound saws are big and heavy, usually requiring two people to move. The wider blade enables a saw of this type to have about half an inch wider capacity than 10-inch, sliding compound saws, plus an inch higher capacity -- good for crown molding. Many reviews say these saws don't offer enough advantages over 10-inch, sliding compound saws to justify their heavy weight and high prices.

Budget, blade and size considerations

If you need a miter saw for very precise, smooth cuts and can't afford a top-rated model, reviews suggest upgrading a budget miter saw to a better blade with more teeth. If you plan to do this, be sure the blade is designed to withstand the miter saw's rotational speed, and of course, add the cost of the new blade to that of the miter saw itself. For example, a top-quality 10-inch Forrest blade with 80 teeth, the Forrest CM10806105 (*Est. $130), costs more than the least expensive miter saw reviewed here. Even a less expensive blade like the 80-tooth Freud TK806 (*Est. $55) can add significantly to the total price.


Features worth considering

Most miter saws on the market now come with a carbide-tipped blade and have both adequate blade guards and electronic brakes. Expert reviews recommend considering additional features that distinguish the best miter saws:

  • Expect to spend time adjusting the miter saw when you first get it. A few saws are accurate right out of the box, but this isn't something you can count on. You'll need a very accurate square and straightedge at the very least, plus the patience to work through the instructions that come with the saw.
  • A self-retracting blade guard is the safest type, covering the blade completely when the blade is raised.
  • A lock-off switch prevents accidents. This is especially important if children have access to the saw, but reviews say it's easy for even a skilled adult to accidentally turn on a miter saw while pivoting the blade to set up a cut.
  • Crown molding stops are important if you plan to cut this type of material. These are stops placed exactly where they're usually needed for cutting crown molding, at 31.6 degrees for miter angle and 33.9 degrees for the bevel.
  • For smooth cuts, use a good-quality blade with 60 teeth or more. Some inexpensive miter saws come with 40-tooth blades that are okay for rough cutting lumber, but can't make smooth, accurate cuts for molding or fine woodworking. Replacing the blade can add $50 to $100 to the price of the saw, so it may actually be less expensive to buy a saw that comes with a higher-quality blade.
  • A zero-clearance insert is best. Some miter saws have slots in the throat plate that let small cutoffs fall through or get stuck; a tiny slot minimizes tearout.
  • The best laser guides are adjustable, with their own switch. Twin-laser guides get the best reviews. A nonadjustable laser guide without its own switch is the worst type, because it can make accurate cuts harder.
  • Dust collection is important. Miter saws produce prodigious amounts of sawdust. Be sure to pick one that comes with a dust bag, though reviews recommend connecting the dust port to a good shop vac. (We have a separate report on shop vacs.)
  • Extension wings help stabilize the workpiece. However, most experts say you'll still need a miter stand with outboard wings, a long workbench or a portable roller stand to hold long boards at the right height.
  • Consider balance as well as weight. It's tempting to get the lightest miter saw that will meet your needs for cutting capacity, but experts say some heavy saws are well balanced and easy to carry. For a saw permanently mounted in a workshop, this is a minor consideration.
  • Use hearing protection. Even the quietest miter saws are loud enough to damage hearing.

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