Choosing a face cream

When it comes to choosing a facial moisturizer, knowing your skin is key. Depending on whether it's dry, oily, sensitive, acne-prone or normal, you will want to reach for a cream, lotion or gel. Balms and creams are the thickest facial moisturizers and are generally recommended for individuals with dry skin. Lotions are best for those consumers with normal to slightly dry or slightly oily skin, because these products are lighter and less thick than creams. Gels, recommended for those with oily skin, are the lightest, most fluid facial moisturizers. Those with acne-prone skin should look for noncomedogenic moisturizers -- products that are oil-free and won't clog pores. Some moisturizers also contain salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide, both of which help to clear blemishes. Natural moisturizers use plant oils and other organic ingredients and tend to use little or no artificial preservatives, colors or scents.

In addition to choosing the right formula for your skin type, experts recommend looking for products that contain beneficial ingredients like antioxidants (which help to prevent environmental skin damage), glycerin (a humectant that draws water to the skin) and sunscreen additives (for daytime use). Here are some other things experts say about facial moisturizers:

  • Moisturizing ingredients -- in the form of plant oils, mineral oils, shea butter, cocoa butter, petrolatum, cholesterol, silicones or animal oils (including emu, mink and lanolin) -- soften and smooth skin while helping it to retain moisture. Experts say jojoba, squalene and lanolin are the best emollients because they bear the greatest similarity to sebum (the skin's natural moisturizing agent). These are also the least comedogenic (pore-clogging) and most compatible with the skin's biochemistry. Thickening agents like triglycerides, palmitates, myristates and stearates are waxier, but necessary for the fundamental base and texture of the moisturizer.
  • Water-binding agents are ingredients that keep water in the skin. Ceramides, hyaluronic acid, elastin and amino acids keep water from leaving the skin. Humectants (including sorbitol, glycols, glycerin and sodium PCA), which attract water to skin, are important for skin damaged by sun and dehydration, but they won't help your skin retain water.
  • Soothing agents and anti-irritants help skin handle ingredients that may cause irritation. Common additives include bisabolol, allantoin, burdock root, aloe, licorice root, glycyrrhetinic acid, green tea and chamomile extract, which are added to many moisturizers.
  • Antioxidants help to prevent some of the damage caused by free radicals, but to be effective they must come in stable packaging. Antioxidants deteriorate with repeated exposure to air and sunlight. Moisturizers containing antioxidants should be packaged in opaque tubes or bottles to ensure efficacy. Look for dispensers with small openings to minimize air exposure.
  • Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) have been shown to clear pores and remove dead skin, resulting in smooth, hydrated skin. The best AHA skin-care ingredients are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Malic, citric and tartaric acids haven't been shown to be as beneficial to skin. BHA is salicylic acid. AHA increases sun sensitivity, and sun protection is an absolute necessity if you're using an AHA product.
  • The leading cause of skin aging and damage is sun exposure. Therefore, experts recommend your daytime moisturizer have no less than an SPF 15, and it should also include UVA protection with titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, avobenzone, tinsorb or Mexoryl SX. (The term SPF only relates to UVB protection.) Sunscreen should be worn any time you are outside, regardless of how long you will be out. Sunscreen and other sun-sensitive ingredients (like AHA) create the difference between moisturizers labeled as day or night moisturizers.
  • Because of the special needs of facial skin, facial moisturizers tend to be thinner and more concentrated, and most experts say you shouldn't use other types of moisturizers on your face. Opinion is mixed, however, about whether you need a separate moisturizer for areas around the eyes, although it's generally agreed that this area is more sensitive.
  • Although some experts say people with oily skin don't need moisturizers, all agree that an oil-free moisturizer is best for those who tend to break out with acne. People with sensitive skin should choose a moisturizer without perfumes, petrolatum, lanolin or other comedogenic (pore-clogging) ingredients.
  • You should always check a product's ingredients; when in doubt, test it on a patch of skin first to make sure it doesn't cause any problematic reactions. Also, be aware that just because a product has a certain ingredient, that doesn't necessarily mean it has enough of it to make a difference.
  • Experts recommend applying moisturizer just after cleansing, when your skin is plump with water. You should always apply moisturizer while your skin is still slightly damp to seal in moisture.

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