Experts say a good facial moisturizer should leave skin moisturized but not sticky. And your skin type -- dry, normal or oily -- will help guide you to what kind of moisturizer to use. For instance, consumers with dry skin may prefer creams, which have a thicker, more emollient base that softens and moisturizes. Creams generally contain more nourishing moisturizers like shea butter, cocoa butter and petrolatum. Individuals with oily skin may prefer a lightweight moisturizer that contains glycerin and silicones. Experts say those with sensitive skin should avoid irritating ingredients like fragrance and menthol and instead look for products that contain more soothing, anti-inflammatory ingredients such as aloe and chamomile extract. People who prefer a facial moisturizer with anti-wrinkle benefits should look for ones that contain antioxidants, retinol (which helps to increase cell turnover rate and increase collagen production) and alpha hydroxy acids (which gently resurface the skin for a smoother appearance).
Overall, we found good reviews on the best skin-care products at Beautypedia.com, beauty expert and author Paula Begoun's online database. Begoun cites medical journals, cosmetic industry reports and the Food and Drug Administration among her research sources, and she provides comprehensive information on the common ingredients found in moisturizers and other skin-care products. Her other website, CosmeticsCop.com, is also a useful source of information and reviews. The two sites are easily the best professional sources we found on moisturizers. Good Housekeeping tests several moisturizers that make anti-aging claims. Editors use state of the art equipment to measure the results of the creams. Tester feedback is also considered in ranking the most effective products.
ConsumerReports.org's tests on wrinkle creams and anti-wrinkle serums supplies useful information about which products come closest to living up to their claims and which are simply overpriced moisturizers. We found reviews at Shape, Natural Health, and Allure magazines and elsewhere that are less informative, but still useful. These reviews make recommendations, but they don't disclose a lot of data to back them up.
The basic function of a facial moisturizer is to soothe skin and retain moisture, and reviews indicate that most products do that pretty well. However, critics say most manufacturers say their product will eliminate wrinkles or penetrate several layers of skin. Some of these statements are exaggerated, false or deceptive, experts say. Although some products may have a mild effect on the appearance of fine lines, the effect is usually temporary. No over-the-counter product can completely erase the signs of aging. One popular misconception involves the relationship between dry skin and wrinkles. Scientists say a moisturizer will smooth skin to temporarily make wrinkles less apparent, but moisturizing your skin will not have any long-term effect on wrinkles. We address these products in greater depth in our report on wrinkle cream.
Sunscreen is the one ingredient in moisturizers that lends credibility to anti-aging claims. Skin-care experts say sun damage is the foremost cause of early aging. Professionals say that if your moisturizer doesn't have sunscreen included in its formula, you should apply a separate sunscreen every day.
Some dermatologists and other physicians have started their own skin-care lines for profit, but experts say these products are often no better than the moisturizers at your local drugstore. In her book "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter without Me," Paula Begoun cites physician Nicholas Perricone, who was quoted in The New York Times as saying, "Promise them an unlined face, and you can sell them anything." The American Medical Association has issued guidelines advising physicians not to sell health-related products for profit, recognizing the conflict of interest this creates. Begoun also points out that the phrases "dermatologist tested" and "dermatologist approved" are meaningless because there's no standard for what these mean -- they often indicate only that one or two dermatologists tried a product at the manufacturer's request and liked how it felt. It should be noted that after 25 years of reviewing and criticizing other companies' products, Begoun is now selling her own line, though she continues to recommend many products in addition to her own.
This report focuses mainly on the mass-market facial moisturizers found in supermarkets, drugstores, department stores and cosmetic emporiums, such as Sephora and ULTA. Although there are dozens of high-end brands, experts say many low-cost brands are just as effective. Moreover, many cosmetic firms are owned by the same parent company, and the exclusive label that makes high-end brands may be affiliated with the maker of more downscale products. For example, L'Oreal owns Maybelline, Lancome and Biotherm; Estee Lauder owns Clinique, Prescriptives and Origins; Almay is owned by Revlon. Experts say there's little need to spend three or four times more for a department-store facial moisturizer unless you particularly like its feel or scent.
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