Pressure Cookers Full Story

Stovetop pressure cookers

When water is heated in a sealed pressure cooker, steam collects and pressure mounts before leveling off at around 15 pounds per square inch. This, in turn, raises the boiling point of water to around 250 degrees. In this pressurized environment, food cooks much more quickly than usual. Beans don't have to be soaked overnight, for example, and whole grains such as barley cook in about half the usual time. Experts say that sinewy cuts of meat become tender after less than an hour of pressure cooking. Lorna Sass, author of three pressure-cooker cookbooks, calls this benefit a "two-hour taste in 20 minutes."

Unlike first-generation pressure cookers, which used a weight precariously balanced atop a pipe to maintain the seal, newer cookers use spring valves. Second-generation cookers have built-in pressure-release systems and safety valves, and they emit very little steam, requiring fewer heat adjustments than older cookers. Today, manufacturers can virtually guarantee that their pressure cookers will not explode.

Reviews indicate that price is not a particularly reliable indicator of pressure cooker quality. In tests, the Fagor Duo 8-Quart (*Est. $110) outperforms models costing more than twice as much. Editors at Cook's Illustrated like the Fagor's design; it has a larger base than most pressure cookers, making it easier to brown and saute food before pressure cooking, and its handle locks securely. It's user-friendly, with an easy-to-read pressure indicator and well-written instructions and recipes. Testers wish, however, that it had a clearer high-pressure indicator. The only indication that high pressure has been reached is a thin but steady flow of steam, which can be hard to recognize if you've never used a pressure cooker before. Owners agree that this model is easy to use, works beautifully and is well made. Fagor also makes 4-quart (*Est. $80) , 6-quart (*Est. $85) and 10-quart (*Est. $120) pressure cookers.

Several experts, including cookbook author Lorna Sass, cite Kuhn Rikon, a Swiss company, as the top manufacturer of pressure cookers. Reviews say that these cookers are especially quiet and allow very little water to evaporate during cooking. The New York Times Marian Burros tested four cookers and selected a Kuhn Rikon model as her favorite. Editors at Cook's Illustrated, however, found the design of the Kuhn Rikon Duromatic 7.4 Quart (*Est. $220) disappointing. It lacks any "audible or manual locking system," as well as a quick pressure-release valve. The manual instructs users to rinse only the rim of the hot cooker in order to release pressure quickly -- an awkward, potentially dangerous maneuver. Owners praise this model's instruction manual, which they say is very helpful and clearly written, but given the Kuhn Rikon's design flaws in the Cook's Illustrated test, and the high price tag, the Fagor Duo 8-Quart looks likes a better choice, so we've included it in ConsumerSearch Fast Answers.

The WMF Perfect Plus 8 1/2-quart pressure cooker (*Est. $230) very nearly lives up to its name, according to editors at Gourmet and Cook's Illustrated. Like the Fagor, the Perfect Plus has a well-designed quick-release valve, and its detachable handle is a cinch to clean. Kemp Minifie, senior food editor at Gourmet, says she "couldn't be happier" with her Perfect Plus, which she uses to prepare whole grains. Owner reviews of this pressure cooker are overwhelmingly positive. While editors at Cook's Illustrated complain about the low, droning noise this cooker makes under high pressure, owners posting to Amazon.com don't seem to mind.

Editors at Cook's Illustrated gave the little-known Magefesa Classic 8-Quart (*est. $120) a rating of "recommended" because it's quick, consistent and solidly built. Like the Fagor pressure cooker, it lacks a high-pressure indicator gauge. Additional drawbacks include its poorly designed quick-release switch and a brief, unclear instruction manual.

Although some experts say that the Presto 8-Quart Stainless Steel (*Est. $70) can spit hot water and scorch food, more than 150 owners posting to Amazon.com are happy with their Presto cookers. Editors at Cook's Illustrated couldn't find much to like about the Presto, which is why they gave it a rating of "not recommended." They note that its "stay-cool" handle, which they considered too short, became hot to the touch during cooking. They did, however, like its handy valve, which lets you know when the pressure has been completely released. Owners posting to Amazon.com and Cooking.com give the 8-Quart and 6-Quart (*est. $50) Presto pressure cookers above average ratings. Many owners say that they were surprised by the quality of this no frills cooker, given its low price. They like the stainless steel construction and locking handle, which prevents you from opening the appliance during cooking.

Electric pressure cookers

The most credible reviews indicate that standard stovetop pressure cookers are superior to electric models, which don't allow the user to stir the pot once it's sealed. Electric models are usually fitted with aluminum pot inserts, which makes it more difficult to brown ingredients on the stovetop before pressure cooking. What's more, aluminum can react with acidic ingredients such as tomatoes or wine to produce off flavors. Furthermore, most electric pressure cookers are coated with Teflon or Teflon-like substances that can flake off over time.

Nonetheless, the Cuisinart CPC-600 6-Quart electric pressure cooker (*Est. $150) , which has not been included in professional reviews, has garnered a handful of positive user reviews at Amazon.com. Owners appreciate the programmable timer and say that this cooker does its job well. We read some complaints about the Cuisinart's electronic components, which can fail after a couple of years, and other owners say that the instruction manual isn't the best, but early reports indicate that this pressure cooker is sturdily built and quiet.

A less expensive model, the 4-Quart Farberware FPC400 Programmable (*est. $80), has earned mixed reviews from owners. Numerous owners say that this electric pressure cooker works well, cleans up easily and takes up relatively little space on the countertop. Others, however, complain that the Farberware failed to pressurize properly after just a few uses. Even owners who like this model concede that it's probably too small for large households. This pressure cooker is also hard to find.

Electric pressure cookers don't appear to offer any advantages over stovetop pressure cookers, and the electronic components of many such cookers appear prone to breaking. What's more, these cookers generally carry shorter warranties than their stovetop counterparts; the Cuisinart CPC-600 has a 3-year warranty, while Kuhn Rikon guarantees its pressure cookers for 10 years.

Important Considerations: Pressure cookers

The following is the essence of what experts say about pressure cookers:

• Consider how large a cooker you want. Pressure cookers range in capacity from 4 quarts to 23 quarts (the latter is designed for canning). Keep in mind that pressure cookers can only be filled to two-thirds of their capacity. An 8-quart model should yield about 8 servings.

• Don't expect to cook everything in your pressure cooker. Experts say that quick-cooking foods, including green vegetables and shrimp, cook too quickly to be prepared in a pressure cooker. Ideal dishes for pressure cooking included braised meats, stews, whole grains and beans.

• When in doubt, undercook. If you overcook pressure cooker risotto, you'll wind up with a lumpy, congealed mess. You can always undercook food in a pressure cooker and finish it on the stovetop.

• Pressure cooking can save you money. Pressure cookers tenderize tough, inexpensive cuts of meat and quickly cook low cost foods such as beans and rice.

• Look for a pressure indicator. The WMF Perfect Plus has an easy-to-read high-pressure and no-pressure indicator. Other models emit a gentle spray of steam when they reach high pressure, but it can be difficult to recognize unless you have some familiarity with the cooker's operation.

• Don't buy just any pressure cooker cookbook. Marian Burros points out that the Internet is rife with "poorly-written recipes that can give the appliance a bad name." Experts frequently cite Lorna Sass' books as authoritative and reliable.

• Avoid older pressure cookers. Reviews say you shouldn't buy a pressure cooker at a garage sale. Newer cookers have a greater number of safety valves than older models.