How to Buy a Serger

Types and features of sergers

Serger sewing machines create that loopy seam finish you see inside commercially made garments. For garments, a serger is meant to enclose the raw fabric edge in thread to prevent it from fraying. Sergers can also be used to stitch and finish a seam all at once; this is particularly useful for stretch fabrics since a serger's stitch will stretch -- unlike a stitch created with a regular sewing machine.

Additionally, sergers can also be used to make ruffles or create a decorative rolled-hem finish, which folds over an edge of fabric and creates a tight overcast of thread -- a look that's especially nice for baby and children's clothing, or for lingerie.

Some expensive sergers can coverstitch; this is a specialty stitch that's used on stretch garments such as swimwear and workout clothes to give a topstitched look that still stretches.

Some things to keep in mind as you're shopping for a serger sewing machine:

• A serger can't replace a regular sewing machine. Sergers are best for finishing seam allowances to prevent fraying and for a professional look, and they can be used to both stitch and finish seams at once, particularly for knits. However, sergers can't topstitch, aren't very good for zippers and can't make buttonholes or specialty stitches.

• Look for a 2/3/4-thread serger. This is the most basic and inexpensive type of serger, best for those whose main interest is simple seam finishing and some rolled hemming.

• For stretch fabrics, look for differential feed. Almost all models have this feature, which lets you adjust the feed dogs to keep knit and spandex fabrics from stretching out as you sew. Differential feed can also let you make ruffles or a lettuce edge on hems.

• Auto threading is nice, but costly. The least expensive sergers have manual threading, which all reviews say takes some time to master. Higher-end sergers often include some type of automatic threading, but this feature can add $500 or more to the price.

• CDs and instructional videos are nice. Owners say included how-to DVDs or CDs are a major bonus. Even for some machines that didn't come with a video, some owners were able to call the manufacturer and request one.

• For coverstitching, you need at least five threads. We read many comments from serger owners who thought they'd be able to sew a coverstitch with a four-thread serger. You need at least five threads for this, and the machine must specifically say it can coverstitch. You can also buy dedicated coverstitch machines, but these can't trim fabric for a serged edge.