Skillet Review

Stainless-steel outshines other types of skillets

Cookware sets offer an economical way to get the basics, but most sets do not include a 12-inch skillet. Because a pan this size is useful for cooking large portions, we decided to devote a report to this kitchen essential. The terms "skillet" and "fry pan" are used interchangeably to refer to pans with a long handle. Some 12-inch skillets also have a loop-shaped helper handle opposite the main handle to make carrying easier. Skillets can have either vertical or sloping sides, but most don't come with a lid. Experts generally recommend stainless-steel cookware, but professional cooks also say that a nonstick skillet can come in handy for cooking eggs, fish and other sticky foods. Because most nonstick pans have a chemical coating applied to the interior, some people prefer cast iron for its natural nonstick qualities and durability.

Stainless-steel skillets heat evenly on gas or electric stovetops, and experts say they do a superior job of browning food. Those with oven-safe handles can typically withstand temperatures of 500 degrees Fahrenheit in the oven or under the broiler. Many stainless-steel skillets are dishwasher-safe, although manufacturers may still recommend hand-washing. Of course, stainless-steel skillets don't have nonstick surfaces, so cooks have to use oil or nonstick spray to prevent foods from sticking. Stainless skillets can also become scratched and may discolor when heated to temperatures beyond 500 degrees. Stainless-steel skillets that have a nonstick interior have more limitations and require more care to prevent the coating from flaking off prematurely.

Another skillet option is hard-anodized aluminum, made by subjecting aluminum cookware to a chemical process that makes it harder and nonreactive to acidic foods, such as tomatoes. Anodized aluminum is durable and conducts heat very well, but it is heavier and can become scratched or discolored. Hard-anodized nonstick cookware has an interior coating that's usually made of Teflon or a similar material that may eventually wear off.

Cast-iron skillets, which possess some natural nonstick properties if properly cared for, are virtually indestructible. They can withstand high temperatures, but their extra heft can make them unwieldy. Some cast-iron skillets come already seasoned (coated with a small amount of oil that is baked into the surface) by manufacturers. If a cast-iron skillet is not preseasoned, it must be seasoned before use to prevent the formation of rust. Cast-iron cookware handles can get very hot, and these products shouldn't be cleaned with soap or soaked overnight because this can cause rust to form.

What's the deal with Teflon?

Most nonstick skillets are coated with a substance called Teflon or a generic equivalent. Two chemicals involved in the manufacture and application of Teflon (and its equivalents) are of concern to health activists. The first, perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), is a processing agent that's been linked to birth defects in animals. Although the jury is out on whether PFOA is dangerous to humans, and whether it is even present in significant levels in finished nonstick cookware, the Environmental Protection Agency has asked companies to voluntarily eliminate the use of PFOA by the year 2015; many have agreed to comply.

The second chemical of concern is polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), the major component of Teflon. PTFE is inert under normal circumstances, but when heated to more than 500 degrees Fahrenheit (which could happen if you leave an empty pan on the stove), it can emit toxic fumes in concentrations high enough to kill birds and cause flu-like symptoms in adults. Editors at ConsumerReports.org actually tried this, heating pans beyond 500 degrees and measuring PTFE in the air. After testing, editors weren't convinced that PTFE emissions were strong enough to cause concern. Still, consumers should be aware of this issue.

Several manufacturers have introduced alternative nonstick coatings that don't use PFOA. Some don't use either PFOA or PTFE. These coatings are generally made of ceramic, silicone polymer or a coating that's similar to Teflon, but made without PFOA. These alternative nonstick pans get mixed reviews from professional testers. In tests by Cook's Illustrated magazine, these skillets just aren't as good as Teflon at preventing food from sticking, and only three skillets get even a mild recommendation. On the other hand, in tests of cookware at ConsumerReports.org, five of the recommended nonstick sets are Teflon-free. Testers from Fine Cooking and Food & Wine magazines also include Teflon-free pans and skillets among their top picks.

Best skillet reviews

Cook's Illustrated magazine publishes the most comprehensive cookware reviews. In five separate reviews conducted over a three-year period, editors tested traditional, nonstick, nonstick alternatives, cast-iron skillets and omelet pans. Editors put skillets through a variety of tasks, such as cooking omelets, searing steaks and making pan sauces, and they also evaluate each product's construction and durability.

Another comprehensive review is conducted at Fine Cooking magazine, where Maryellen Driscoll tests 10 nonstick skillets. She makes pancakes to assess heat evenness, cooks pork chops to evaluate browning, and whips up eggs and fish to judge how well food releases from the pans. Food & Wine magazine tests three types of skillets and Bon AppŽtit magazine editors select three favorites, but the testing methodology isn't detailed. In The New York Times' 2006 review of eight skillets that do not contain Teflon, Marian Burros is primarily concerned with food sticking and ease of cleaning. She cooks a variety of foods using only a thin film of oil; her results show stainless steel doesn't perform as well as cast-iron skillets.

ConsumerReports.org doesn't rate skillets specifically, but editors do conduct a review of 35 stainless-steel and nonstick cookware sets, including some brands of green cookware. Pancakes are the only food cooked to judge even heating. Since nearly all the cookware sets tested are rated either "very good" or "excellent" for cooking evenness, the overall rating depends mostly on handle design and the ease of cleaning. Nonstick cookware is put through an abuse test with steel wool to gauge durability, and three sets receive low scores.

We also turned to reviews at Amazon.com, and Cooking.com, where owners rate their skillet purchases. This is a good place to gauge how well skillets hold up over time. It's also interesting to see whether the skillets heat quickly and evenly, release food without sticking and clean easily.

Celebrity chefs, such as Emeril Lagasse and Rachael Ray, have their own brands of cookware, but reviews are limited. Emerilware Hard Anodized cookware is included in one expert review, where it outperforms most other brands in cooking evenness. But the nonstick coating scored just average on durability when rubbed with steel wool. The handle design and sturdiness also had lackluster results. Emerilware Pro-Clad Stainless is actually made by All-Clad -- both brands have a tri-ply construction with an aluminum core sandwiched between stainless steel. Where they differ considerably is in price, as the Emerilware Pro-Clad Stainless Steel 12-Inch Fry Pan (*Est. $80) costs $60 less than the All-Clad branded version.

The Rachel Ray Hard Anodized Nonstick 12-Inch Open Skillet (*Est. $45) gets a better response from owners at Amazon.com, where about three dozen owners give it a near-perfect rating. The main drawback is a silicon-coated handle, which albeit comfortable, limits it to a maximum oven temperature of 400 degrees Fahrenheit.