How Sunless Tanners Work

Pros and cons of sunless tanning products

Magazines like Redbook, Harper's Bazaar, Shape and Elle are full of suggestions for sunless tanning, but the best objective reviews we found are the comparative reviews that appear in Paula Begoun's book Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me. Here, Begoun uses years of research and product testing to compare the ingredients and claims of several sunless tanners and other beauty products. The Washingtonian magazine, Prevention Magazine and Consumer Reports test multiple self-tanning products on staffers and other volunteers, and test results are well documented, with comments on application, effectiveness, smell and longevity. SqueezeOC.com and InStyle Magazine are also good sources for reviews. About.com has some picks for self tanners, but we found no less than four different and unrelated top-five lists on the site, with no agreement between the articles, which are all written by separate people.

Since unprotected sun exposure is a sure way to develop wrinkles, skin damage and a greater risk for skin cancer, many are curious about sunless tanning products. These products give users a natural-looking simulated tan without any sun damage. All sunless tanners, or self tanners, contain DHA (dihydroxyacetone), which temporarily stains the skin surface and fades like a suntan does as skin cells are shed naturally. DHA is considered by experts to be completely safe for skin. DHA gives no protection from the sun or from UV exposure in sunlight. If you're going to be in the sun, you still need to wear sunscreen.

Daily self-tanning moisturizers are becoming more common; these claim to combine a daily moisturizer with low-strength tanning ingredients. Reviewers call these gradual tanners "goof proof" because the diluted DHA formula tans over time and will not streak. Still, it may take a bit of trial and error to find the perfect match with these mild self-tanners. For testers at SqueezeOC.com, for instance, only two out of the five self-tanning moisturizers resulted in any tan at all over the course of a week. Another reviewer reported that choosing a shade that is too dark for your complexion can turn your skin orange. As with all other self-tanners, it is best to test daily sunless tanning moisturizers in an inconspicuous area before using it all over your skin.

These daily self-tanning moisturizers are so popular that skincare companies have taken the idea even further. The latest variations are supposed to not only moisturize and tan the skin but also help reduce the appearance of aging, give the skin a firm and taut appearance and even, in some cases, slow down hair growth. These moisturizers are meant to be used daily or every other day like a regular body moisturizer, and your tan, as well as other benefits, is supposed to develop gradually.

According to user reviews at Drugstore.com and other opinion sites, Jergens Natural Glow Firming Daily Moisturizer (*Est. $7.50 for 7.5 ounces) is an excellent moisturizer and self-tanner, but it may not do much to actually firm up your skin. Very few users say they noticed any difference at all. However, the moisturizing and tanning aspects of this product are well liked overall, and we found very good reviews for Jergens Natural Glow Daily Moisturizer (*Est. $7.50 for 7.5 ounces), which doesn't claim to have firming benefits. We came across some interesting reviews for another combination product, Sally Hansen Smooth Glow Stubble Reducing Daily Moisturizer (*Est. $12.50 for 8 ounces), which is supposed to retard hair growth. Many users state that there was an obvious reduction of hair growth in addition to the tan, although the moisturizer itself is reported to be very thick and greasy.

Another new trend in sunless tanning is the "adjustable" self-tanner. These sunless tanning products let users turn a dial to adjust the amount of DHA in each application in order to create the desired tan color. The packaging is divided into two chambers, one holding the self-tanning ingredients and one holding the moisturizer. The ingredients are activated with the turn of a dial. However, we haven't yet seen many reviews for this type of product, notably the Banana Boat Every Day Glow Sun Dial (*Est. $12 for 6.7 ounces) or Aveeno Continuous Radiance Moisturizing Lotion for All Skin Tones (*Est. $14 for 7.5 ounces). Of the reviews we did find, most users had positive comments for Banana Boat, complaining only of the strong smell. The reviews for Aveeno, on the other hand, are more mixed. Some users complain about streaking, while others comment on a natural-looking tan. Most, however, like the smell of Aveeno.

Sunless tanners can be used all year long and can quickly add a realistic glow to wintry white skin. They're also a great way to temporarily cover tan lines. However, they are not always easy to apply. Experts say the best way to achieve an even, sunless tan is to exfoliate first and be sure skin is smooth before applying the product. Rough skin attracts uneven color, but smooth skin provides a good base for a natural-looking sunless tan.

One prevailing complaint about all sunless tanning products is the smell. DHA has a definite odor, and despite manufacturer efforts to minimize the chemical smell of DHA, most users say they can still smell it. Some don't mind the smell, while it's a deal breaker for others. If you haven't yet tried a self tanner, you might sniff one in a store -- you'll smell the DHA, a chemical-like undertone, immediately.