Sunscreen Review

Which sunscreen ingredients protect best?

In identifying the most effective sunscreens, we turned to Beautypedia.com, a subscription-based database created by cosmetics expert Paula Begoun. Begoun rates sunscreens according to how well they protect from UVA and UVB rays, as well as on water resistance, fragrance and feel. We found that this website offers the most thorough, credible information. Consumer Reports also has an excellent review in which products are tested for their UVA and UVB protection levels. Several beauty and fashion magazines rate sunscreens as part of their annual beauty awards, though their tests are more informal.

Reviews say that newer sunscreen ingredients are now better at blocking harmful UVA rays, but the product must contain avobenzone (also called Parsol 1789), titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or Mexoryl SX (or Tinosorb outside the U.S.), to fully protect. There are two different types of UV rays in sunlight: UVB light causes surface sunburn, while UVA light penetrates and causes deeper connective-tissue damage -- even when the skin surface feels cool. UVA light is the culprit for premature aging and cell-level damage. With the number of sunscreens on the market, it's important to know which ones will protect you from both UVB and UVA rays.

Mexoryl SX is touted as the most effective UVA-blocking ingredient currently available. It has been used in Canada and Europe since 1993, and was approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for use in the U.S. in July 2006. However, sunscreen products containing Mexoryl SX (a trademark of L'Oreal) have been slow to enter the U.S. market. Initially only a handful of products with Mexoryl, all made by L'Oreal-owned companies, were available in the U.S., but the number is growing. La Roche-Posay Anthelios 40 (*Est. $32 for 1.7 ounces), for example, is a sunscreen lotion with Mexoryl SX. Another is Lancome UV Expert 20 (*Est. $35 for 3.4 ounces), a face and body lotion. Ombrelle Kids SPF 45 (*Est. $24 for 8 ounces) is a L'Oreal sunscreen lotion for children that uses Mexoryl SX.

Reviewers claim that these products contain an ideal mix of ingredients for the best possible protection, but Paula Begoun, author of "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me," is not as impressed. She agrees that products using Mexoryl SX offer reliable UVA protection, but says that the formulas currently available are very expensive and don't contain many other beneficial ingredients, such as antioxidants. Neither does she agree that Mexoryl SX offers the best possible protection. "Although Mexoryl SX is a good UVA sunscreen," she says, "it does not provide the highest level of UVA protection as claimed on the label. Lest we forget, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide can screen UVA rays well beyond their measurable threshold. So Mexoryl SX, while viable, is not intrinsically the best."

Helioplex is another advance in sun protection. Developed by Neutrogena, Helioplex boosts the UVA-blocking power of avobenzone by creating a longer-lasting sunscreen that does not have to be reapplied for five hours. Neutrogena claims that avobenzone begins to degrade after a couple of hours when additional boosting ingredients, such as napthalate (the key ingredient in Helioplex), are not present. Paula Begoun, however, disputes this claim, stating that there is substantial research showing that avobenzone can be stable without additional ingredients. One study in particular shows that the effectiveness of avobenzone exposed to the sun for 72 hours (far past the recommended usage time) only decreased by 25 percent.

There are actually two kinds of UVA rays -- short and long waves. Avobenzone protects against long-wave rays. Several ingredients, including the commonly used oxybenzone, can only protect against short-wave UVA rays. Many sunscreens contain oxybenzone, but don't contain anything to protect against long-wave UVA. By including oxybenzone, companies are allowed to say their product protects against UVA, but unless it also contains avobenzone, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide or Mexoryl SX, you are not protected against long-wave UVA rays. That's why skin-care experts say you should look for broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection.

Some of the latest sunscreen products use nanotechnology to make formulas that are more aesthetically pleasing. Nano-sized titanium dioxide and zinc oxide particles are much smaller than the typical micronized particles contained in most sunscreens. The smaller particle size allows them to go on more smoothly without leaving a noticeable white cast on the skin. Some consumer advocates, however, warn that nano-sized particles can penetrate the skin and are potentially hazardous. However, editors of TheGreenGuide.com, a National Geographic website, say that studies show that these particles cannot penetrate the skin deep enough to be absorbed into the bloodstream and are generally trapped in the outer layer of the skin and not absorbed at all. Paula Begoun concurs, pointing out that there is no scientific proof that these sunscreens are absorbed into the skin. She says, "Actually, you wouldn't want that to happen regardless of any potential risk because sunscreen actives need to remain in the surface layers of skin in order to protect it from UV damage."

What is SPF?

The SPF (sunscreen protection factor) in sunscreen is frequently misunderstood; many people think that an SPF 30 sunscreen offers double the protection of an SPF 15. However, reviewers say SPF 15 blocks 93 percent of rays, while SPF 30 blocks 97 percent. Experts say that SPF ratings higher than 30 don't offer any further UV protection, and let the same 3 percent of UV rays through as SPF 30. However, a higher SPF means you may not have to reapply as often. Furthermore, SPF only applies to UVB rays. For that reason, it's just as important to look specifically for UVA protection.

In 2006, nine lawsuits were filed in California against the makers of five of the most popular brands of sunscreen in the U.S. -- Coppertone, Hawaiian Tropic, Banana Boat, Neutrogena and Bull Frog -- for misrepresenting product claims. These suits are mostly over terms that may make parents overconfident with sunscreen, including "waterproof," "sweat-proof" and "sunblock."
Sunscreens can more accurately be described as water- and sweat-resistant because they need to be reapplied after exercise or contact with water. The plaintiffs also suggest that these products should not be called "sunblock," since no product can block all harmful rays.

Finally, you may notice that some sunscreens display logos from the American Cancer Society (ACS). This does not indicate that the ACS has tested or endorses the sunscreen -- the companies pay a royalty fee for the right to display the logo.