When it comes to buying a toaster, cost is not necessarily a reliable indicator of toasting ability. You'll pay more for contemporary styling, all-metal construction and features such as LED readouts and bagel settings, but the Proctor-Silex 22605 (*Est. $19) gets the job done nearly as well as pricier toasters. If you plan to keep your toaster in a cupboard and don't care about features, consider buying an inexpensive toaster with self-centering slots, which help toast brown evenly on both sides.

For evenly browned bread, allow for a break-in period of about six uses, and don't judge a toaster on its first few batches.

Here's what reviewers say about selecting a toaster:

  • Consider what you want to toast. Models with long, wide slots can accommodate slices of artisan bread or bagels. If you frequently toast items like English muffins, look for a model with a high bread lift so you don't have to fish out smaller items.
  • Look for a bagel setting if you like to toast only on one side. This feature heats just one side of the slot, so only the cut side gets toasted.
  • Assess your counter space. Four-slice toasters tend to be bulky, as do toasters with retro styling. If you have a place where you plan to store your toaster, be sure to measure its width and depth before buying.
  • Decide how much you're willing to pay for style. Experts say that white toasters show their age faster than chrome or colored toasters. Chrome or polished stainless steel toasters are more likely to show scratches and fingerprints.
  • Look for safety features. If your household includes children, look for a stay-cool top and sides, as well as cord storage and a bread lift, which will prevent you from having to dig for mini bagels and other small items and risk being burned or electrocuted.
  • Look for a removable crumb tray. These are much more convenient and easier to clean than hinged trays. The best crumb trays are dishwasher-safe.

Experts favor electronic controls or numbered dials over shade dials without numbers. If you plan to toast frozen waffles or oblong slices of bread, look for slots that are at least 5.5 inches deep.

If you are fond of frozen waffles, look for a toaster with a defrost feature, which thaws and toasts in a single cycle. Most experts, however, say they easily can do without these extra settings. A reheat setting, which warms cold toast without adding color, is handy but hardly essential. Some toasters come with warming racks, which usually sit atop the toaster, for croissants and other pastries that don't fit easily into toasters.

While reviews favor toasters with cords longer than 40 inches, they agree that families with children should opt for models with cord storage (which allows you to wrap extra cord underneath the machine). Four-slice toasters are a time-saving option for families. Look for a model with dual controls if some family members prefer their toast darker than others.

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