Prescription wrinkle creams use derivatives of vitamin A, known as retinoids, to firm skin and diminish fine lines and wrinkles. Although they cannot rival cosmetic medical procedures, such as Botox and face lifts, experts at ConsumerReports.org say retinoids are "the only proven topical/prescription remedy for wrinkles." They are stronger than over-the-counter products and can make an obvious difference to all levels of skin, whether in the beginning or advanced stages of aging. It's important to note, however, that even these proven creams are unlikely to erase all signs of aging and those with more noticeable wrinkles may need a stronger dosage. Still, doctors recommend sticking to the lowest dosage until your skin adjusts to it.
Both tretinoin and tazarotene, prescription-strength retinoids, can help to improve the appearance of aging and sun-damaged skin. Tretinoin (available in Retin-A, Renova and Avita), in particular, can normalize skin cell production in damaged skin. More specifically, it helps skin to readily produce collagen, a protein that supports the skin structure and gives it elasticity. Tazarotene (available in Tazorac) has not been studied nearly as often for anti-aging properties, but it is believed to work in a similar manner.
Paula Begoun, skin-care expert and creator of Beautypedia.com, an online database of professional beauty reviews, points out that it is common to confuse the purpose of retinoids with that of AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids). But, she insists that AHAs work on a surface level to exfoliate the skin while retinoids work on a deeper more cellular level. While retinoids are known to cause irritation in the form of dry, flaky skin, they do not have an exfoliating function.
Because Retin-A (available by prescription only) is covered more often in reviews, we chose to focus on this particular brand. It's important to note, however, that all prescription retinoids perform similar functions. Retin-A is available in cream, gel or liquid textures, although the gel is not recommended because it contains 90 percent alcohol which "significantly increases the potential for irritation," according to Begoun. The prescription is available in four strengths: 0.01, 0.025, 0.05 and 0.1 percent.
Retin-A Micro is similar to Retin-A, in that it uses tretinoin as its active ingredient, but it is encapsulated for controlled release, which is thought to decrease the potential for irritation because it is more readily absorbed, preventing the active ingredient from accumulating on the outer layers of skin. It is available in both 0.04 and .01 percent strengths.
Julyne Derrick, beauty guide for About.com, swears by Retin-A as the best beauty secret for shaving years off of your face. She says it keeps her skin "dewy, clear and pretty flawless." Hundreds of users at MakeupAlley.com, an online database of user reviews of cosmetic and skin-care products, give Retin-A top marks. Although many of them use it to fight blemishes, most note its positive effect on fine lines and wrinkles. Several also insist that Retin-A smoothes out the texture of their skin, making makeup easier to apply or unnecessary altogether. At the same time, we saw lots of comments about skin irritation, including flaking, redness and itchiness, but most maintain that these issues go away within a couple of weeks.
It's important to note that retinoids can cause sun sensitivity, so it is imperative for users to wear a broad spectrum sunscreen (dermatologists currently recommend at least 30 SPF) while using these products.
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