Champagne

Bubbly: A quick overview

There are whole books available on sparkling wine and Champagne (see our Best Research section for a reading list), but in short, Champagne is made from as many as three varieties of grape: chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier. Sparkling wines made exclusively from chardonnay grapes are known as blanc de blancs ("white of whites"), while wines made entirely from pinot noir grapes are known as blanc de noirs ("white of blacks"). Large Champagne producers buy most of their grapes, while some small vintners both grow and produce their own Champagne. Rosé Champagne is produced when unfermented juice is allowed to steep with grape skins, or a small amount of red wine is added before bottling. Whatever the blend, the best sparkling wines employ the méthode Champenoise: Grape juice is fermented in stainless-steel vats or wooden casks, blended and bottled. A mixture of yeast, water and sugar is added, and in-bottle secondary fermentation produces carbon dioxide, giving these wines their fizz.

Ninety percent of the Champagnes shipped worldwide in 2006 were non-vintage. Most were made from a blend of vintages, which enables producers to make wine with a consistent style year after year. Experts say that non-vintage bubblies can be exuberant, with juicy acidity and the yeasty, toasty aromas characteristic of Champagne. Bruce Sanderson of Wine Spectator believes that non-vintage Champagnes offer better value than their vintage counterparts.

True Champagne is produced only in the Champagne region of France; however, many French Champagne producers, including Mumm and Louis Roederer, have offshoots in northern California. A few players, including the LVMH and Allied Domecq (which owns Mumm and Perrier-Jouet), control more than a third of the Champagne market.

Top domestic sparkling wines

Sparkling wine from California's Roederer Estate -- a domestic offshoot of the French producer -- can compete with the top French houses, say experts. The estate uses a blend of chardonnay and pinot noir grapes grown on-site to produce its California Brut. Ed McCarthy, the author of several books on wine, believes that Roederer Estate is the world's best sparkling wine in its price class. Eric Asimov of The New York Times has said he's always satisfied with a bottle of Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Non-Vintage Brut (*est. $20), and Fiona Beckett of Epicurious.com calls this wine "rich, seductive, and full-bodied." Wine Spectator says this sparkling wine is "fresh and lively," with notes of pear, fig and honeysuckle. The San Francisco Chronicle's tasting panel awarded Roederer Estate NV Brut perfect scores, and Wine Spectator awarded it 90 points (out of a possible 100) -- a high score in this price range. Experts say Roederer Estate NV Brut is ready to drink now.

In a slightly lower price range, Sonoma-based Gloria Ferrer produces a rich, creamy Brut (*est. $15) with notes of almond, caramel and red berry flavors, reviews say. Mineral and fruit flavors linger on the palate, according to Wine Spectator. Ferrer earned a high rating from Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast and Wine & Spirits, with all awarding it 90 points or more (on a 100-point scale). Moreover, Ferrer is the least expensive of the highly-rated California Brut sparkling wines. Although not as refined as the top-rated vintage Champagnes, Ferrer is said to be a delicious bubbly that's suitable for drinking now.

In professional reviews, inexpensive Mumm Napa Brut Prestige non-vintage (*est. $14) earns praise in its price range for its toasty aroma and hints of baked apple and vanilla. Experts say it's nearly as good a value as Gloria Ferrer. Wine Spectator awarded it 90 points, and Wine News gave it 92 points (out of 100). Consumers posting to Wine.com say that this versatile wine is a good value. With a touch of vanilla and plenty of acidity, this wine pairs well with fish and shellfish, according to critics.

Scharffenberger Brut Mendocino (*est. $18) earns equally high ratings from Wine Spectator and Wine News, but reviews say that it is slightly less intense than Mumm Napa Brut Prestige. This is a very dry wine that is said to have citrus and spice notes, with a streak of tartness. It could be worth a try if you prefer drier wines. For the money, we found the most universal praise for Roederer Estate NV Brut, but any of these four outperform other sparkling wines in their price class.

Best values in French Champagne

Critics will tell you that if it’s not from France, it's not really Champagne. In general, French Champagne tends to outscore domestic sparkling wines, but not always. Slate.com's Mike Steinberger considers Louis Roederer Brut Premier (*est. $40) the finest non-vintage Champagne on the market. Steinberger is bowled over by its complexity and refreshing minerality. With an average of three and a half years of aging, this Champagne is redolent of berries, apple, pear and almonds. The Wine Advocate's Robert Parker awarded the Roederer Champagne 90 points (out of 100), noting that it's a particularly fine value.

We also found consistently good reviews for Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve (*est. $35), which some experts say is fuller-bodied and has a long finish compared to others in its non-vintage class. This is a complex wine with an appealing bouquet of peaches and minerals and an abundance of tropical fruit flavors. Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast magazines have given this Champagne ratings of 92 and 94 points (out of 100), respectively.

Critics say that Nicolas Feuillatte NV Brut (*est. $25) is a frothy, elegant Champagne with a well-deserved reputation for quality. Wine Review Online's Ed McCarthy recommends Feuillatte for those seeking a light-bodied Champagne, and Eric Asimov says that it's well balanced, off-dry and bright with citrus and floral flavors. Wine Enthusiast notes that this wine would benefit from four to five years of aging. Feuillatte Champagne also gets high ratings at Wine Spectator in its class.

Piper-Heidsieck Champagne Brut (*est. $35) is said to be lighter and crisper than Feuillatte, with an intense aroma of toast and graphite. Wine Spectator awards this "finely wrought, chiseled Champagne" 90 points (out of 100); Bruce Sanderson notes that the finish is long, if tart.

Experts say that most Champagnes improve with aging, but this is especially true of vintage Champagnes. Many vintage Champagnes will not reach their peak until they have spent a decade or more in the bottle. The best recent vintages were 1990, 1995, 1996, 1997 and 1998, according to producers and critics.

In a tasting of 25 blanc de blancs vintage Champagnes, The New York Times singled out Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires Brut 1995 (*est. $100) as a particularly elegant, balanced example of the style. According to Wine Spectator's Sanderson, 1995 was an outstanding vintage. This Champagne can be consumed now or held until about 2012.

Eric Asimov of The New York Times says that Champagne Bollinger's house style, which relies heavily on pinot noir, balances power with grace. The house's Special Cuvée NV (*est. $95) evokes honey and dried orange peel. Slate.com's Steinberger calls this Champagne "superb," praising its "terrific medley of fruits and spices." Bollinger wines age gracefully, according to experts.

Bruce Sanderson of Wine Spectator says that the Piper-Heidsieck Brut Champagne Cuvée Rare NV (*est. $100) is an unusually delicate, refined wine redolent of vanilla, graphite and lemon candy. He considers it one of the best in its price class.

If you want the best Champagne available at any price, we found the highest praise for Krug Brut Champagne 1996 (*est. $250). Wine Spectator's Sanderson says that this wine's creamy texture offsets the steeliness of the 1996 vintage; Sanderson calls expensive Champagne "majestic" and "stunning." Ed McCarthy goes a step further, calling Krug Brut "one of the greatest Champagnes I have ever tasted." Experts say that Krug Champagnes only improve with many years of aging. According to Eyewitness Companions' Wines of the World, the 1981 Krug was nearing its peak in 2002 -- over 20 years after its release. Sanderson says that the 1996 Krug can be held until 2040.

Reviews say that long-aged Champagne has a complex aroma, moderate levels of fruit and a deeper color than young wine. If you are interested in tasting one now, reviews say that the De Venoge Brut 1988 (*est. $100) is a Champagne of exceptional quality, with flavors of leather, coffee and dried fruits. Wine Spectator awarded it 97 points (out of 100). It can be consumed now or held for several more years.

Rosé Champagnes

According to The New York Times, sales of rosé Champagne increased 700 percent between 1995 and 2006. The majority of experts say that these wines are appealingly quirky, with notes of earth, flowers and berries in additional to the usual toasty, citrus-y flavors characteristic of Champagne.

Rosé Champagne gets its pink hue one of two ways: Producers either leave grape skins to steep in the juice, or they add a small amount of red wine to the blended juices. Rosés tend to cost more and spend more time in the bottle than traditional Champagnes. Critics caution that while these wines may be in vogue, their quality doesn't outclass that of their traditional counterparts, and in many cases may be lower.

Mike Steinberger says that Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé NV (*est. $70) is a superb rosé that's shot through with flavors of wild strawberry, tangerine and coconut. Moreover, its texture is "almost pillowy." According to The New York Times' tasting panel, the Billecart-Salmon is complex and mature, with a delicate, honeyed flavor.

Reviews say that there are few true bargain rosés, but Moët et Chandon's NV Rosé Impérial (*est. $55) is an excellent Champagne for the price, according to Wine Spectator's Bruce Sanderson. It's a fruity wine with dominant flavors of red fruits and a coppery color. Sanderson also recommends Janisson & Fils Brut Rosé Champagne Kirkland Signature (*est. $32), which has berry flavors as well as refreshing notes of citrus. This wine is available at Costco, which bottles wines under its private label, Kirkland.

Important Features: Sparkling wine and Champagne

Without a year on the label, it's impossible to tell how long a non-vintage Champagne has been sitting on the shelf. It's important, therefore, to buy sparkling wine from a trusted retailer with high turnover.

A reputable wine shop should replace a bottle that is found to be tainted with TCA, a set of chemicals that produce an unpleasant smell known as cork taint. Tainted wines are described variously as smelling like canned mushrooms, mold, must, chemicals, wet earth or newspaper. Wine Spectator estimates that about 7% of all bottles are tainted. If you suspect your wine is tainted, bring it back to the shop and ask a salesperson to taste it.

Champagne should be stored in a cool, dark place (ideally, between 53 and 59 degrees Fahrenheit) with fairly high humidity. Bottles should be kept at a distance from vibrations like those produced by a washing machine.

Experts say that long tulip glasses are the best all-around Champagne glasses, but flutes are suitable for non-vintage Champagnes and other sparkling wines.

Our Consensus Report shows how many times products are top-ranked by reviewers included in our
All The Reviews Reviewed chart.

# of Picks	Model (with retailer links)
3	Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut (*est. $20)
2 each	Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut , Taittinger Brut La Française , Bollinger Special Cuvée Brut Champagne NV , François Hémart Rosé Grand Cru Brut Rosé NV
1 each	Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé NV , Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires Brut 1995 , Charles Heidsieck Brut 1995 , Dom Pérignon 1999 , Domaine Chapuy Brut Blanc de Blancs Réserve, Drappier Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne Cuvée Signature NV, Janisson & Fils Brut Champagne Tradition NV, José Dhondt Mes Vieilles Vignes $70 Grand Cru Brut 2002, Lanson Black Label Brut NV, Louis Roederer Brut Premier , Mumm Napa Brut NV , Piper-Heidsieck Champagne Brut , Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill 1998 , Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut , Roederer Estate Brut Rosé Anderson Valley NV , Roederer Estate L'Ermitage Anderson Valley Brut 2000 , Taittinger Blanc de Blancs "Comtes de Champagne" 1995 , Pierre Morlet Millesime 1999

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