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Cookware Reviews
Updated October 2007
Cook's Illustrated magazine provides the most comprehensive cookware reviews we found. Editors have tested nearly every type of pot and pan, from skillets and saucepans to Dutch ovens and roasting pans. Editors clearly explain their rankings, making it easy to see why a particular pan succeeded or failed in tests. The magazine's latest evaluation covers cast-iron pans, which are making a comeback as an alternative to Teflon-coated cookware. Although Consumer Reports' latest review includes 38 lines of stainless steel and nonstick cookware, editors don't say much about each brand's performance. Furthermore, more than half the lines achieve almost identically high ratings. We are pleased, however, that Consumer Reports has included cookware sets from Costco and Sam's Club in its reviews. Editors at Real Simple publish two contradictory articles, one of which posits that heat conduction is the best indicator of cookware performance, and the other of which argues that "the right pan for the right task can make all the difference." While the former suggests that a nine-piece set of All-Clad Master Chef cookware (*est. $520) can suit all your needs, the latter recommends cast-iron cookware for stovetop-to-oven cooking, stainless steel for browning, and nonstick aluminum for low-fat cooking. Good Housekeeping not only tests 25 mainstream brands but also rates celebrity-endorsed cookware. Editors report that 14 cookware sets didn't measure up, but they don't disclose the names of lesser performers or tell us which brands were evaluated. Editors only provide a full report on the top six sets. We were surprised to find that some celebrity cookware performs nearly as
well as top-rated brands, but this may be because respected brands back up
the celebrity name. Emerilware is made by All-Clad; Jamie Oliver by T-Fal.
Martha Stewart cookware, which isn't backed by a major cookware manufacturer,
doesn't perform as well in testing at Cook's Illustrated. Over low heat, the
Martha Stewart 12-inch nonstick skillet (*est. $30) sautéed too slowly;
over high heat, onions burned. As the debate of the safety of Teflon continues, manufacturers look to developing
non-Teflon alternatives. Editors at Cook's Illustrated tested
Calphalon One cookware
(*est. $580 for a 10-piece set)
, which claims to combine the "best
qualities of both traditional metal and nonstick cookware." The review
pitted Calphalon One against editors' favorite traditional and nonstick skillets
from All-Clad. Salmon, hash browns and scrambled eggs all stuck to the Calphalon
One pan, but seared steak browned nicely and developed a good crust. Cook's
Illustrated concluded that Calphalon One is an expensive choice that can't
replace a regular nonstick skillet. Owners posting comments to Amazon.com are
likewise unsure that this cookware's performance justifies its high price. Cookware comes in a variety of materials, including stainless steel, Teflon-coated
stainless steel, coated and uncoated cast iron, and copper. According to experts,
no one type of cookware is suited to all tasks. Before you buy a full cookware
set, consider your needs. The professionals at Cook's Illustrated consider
only four pieces of cookware to be truly essential: a large skillet (12 inches
is best), a small cast-iron skillet, a 3- to 4-quart saucepan, and a large
soup/pasta pot (many cooks use a Dutch oven for these tasks).
... Continued
Our Consensus Report shows how many times products are top-ranked by reviewers included in our
All-Clad Stainless is clearly the most popular cookware, but also the most expensive. We didn’t find a lot of consensus in reviews for less expensive cookware, so we checked the picks in professional reviews against owner comments at Amazon.com and Epinions. Among uncoated sets, Cuisinart's Chef's Classic stainless (*est. $125 for 10 pieces) line gets high marks from over 100 owners posting to Amazon.com, plus good scores in professional reviews. Several reviews say celebrity cookware from Emeril Lagasse and Jamie Oliver compares well to other cookware, but Cuisinart Chef's Classic has similar performance and construction for less. As for nonstick cookware, we did not find much consensus. Two reviews like nonstick skillets in the Cuisinart Chef's Classic nonstick line, but other reviews complain that the Teflon coating flakes off too easily. Kirkland Signature Hard-anodized nonstick cookware does well in professional reviews for durability, and owners like it as well. If you just want a good inexpensive nonstick skillet, Cook's Illustrated likes WearEver's Hard Anodized nonstick skillet. Advertisement
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