Cookware

Stainless steel cookware

For most uses, experts say a stainless steel cookware set is your best bet. Not only is it sturdy and non-reactive, it's dishwasher-safe and impervious to scrapes. You'll have to use fat to prevent foods from sticking, but the resulting fond (the little brown bits that stick to the pan bottom) can be used to create delicious pan sauces.

All-Clad Stainless (*est. $570 for a 9-piece set) earns top marks in six reviews. All-Clad is distinguished by its construction, which marries a copper and aluminum core with a stainless steel exterior. Cheaper cookware, such as Emerilware Stainless (also made by All-Clad), has a tri-ply bottom layer of stainless steel, aluminum and copper, but All-Clad's own line has an aluminum core that extends up the sides of the pan. This is particularly important if you have a gas range, as the All-Clad pots and pans conduct the heat from flames that lick the sides of the pan. Stainless steel reflects light, which makes it easy to tell how quickly your fond is browning, and it cleans up easily in the sink or dishwasher. All-Clad pans have generous cooking surfaces, stay-cool handles and excellent maneuverability, say editors at Cook's Illustrated.

Stainless steel's major drawback is price: A traditional 12-inch skillet can cost as much as $180. Those interested in limiting their fat intake should note that sautéing in an uncoated stainless steel pan requires at least a film of fat to prevent sticking.

Like All-Clad, Calphalon pans have tri-ply construction (aluminum sandwiched between stainless steel). While Simply Calphalon (*est. $200 for a 10-piece set) pans have aluminum cores on the bottom only, Calphalon Tri-Ply Stainless (*est. $300 for an 8-piece set) and Contemporary Stainless (*est. $500 for a 10-piece set) have aluminum running up the sides as well. These sets carry a lifetime warranty and are dishwasher safe, at least in theory. The manufacturer recommends hand-washing "to keep your cookware looking its best." Calphalon Stainless fares well in expert testing and tends to be less expensive than All-Clad.

Uncoated cookware with metal handles is oven safe to varying temperatures. Emerilware Stainless is oven safe up to 400 degrees Fahrenheit, while All-Clad Stainless is oven safe up to 500 degrees Fahrenheit. Chefs say this is important if you like to brown or sear meats on the stovetop, then finish them in the oven. Some nonstick sets are oven-safe as well, provided they don't have plastic handles. A few new cookware sets have oven-safe silicone handles that are safe to 350 degrees.

KitchenAid Gourmet Essentials (*est. $150 for 10 pieces) doesn't often appear in professional reviews, although it did fare well in one professional test. This dishwasher-safe cookware has a brushed-stainless exterior and silicone handles that are oven safe to 400 degrees. Although this cookware has a stainless steel-encased aluminum core, the aluminum is confined to the bottom of the pan, making its heat conduction inferior to that of All-Clad.

Like the KitchenAid Gourmet Essentials, the Cuisinart Chef's Classic stainless line (*est. $125 for 10 pieces) features a bottom-only aluminum core encased in stainless steel. The hollow metal handles are riveted, and the larger pots include "helper" handles that assist in keeping the pot level. Testers at Cook's Illustrated praise the Chef's Classic stockpot for its easy-grip handles and spill-resistant design. In an older review, they also awarded high marks to the Cuisinart 4-quart saucepan for its solid feel and slow sauté speed. This cookware is oven safe up to 550 degrees -- a high temperature rating for mid-priced cookware. In reviews at Amazon.com, Cuisinart Chef's Classic stainless is a favorite, with more than 100 owners contributing to its rating of 4.5 stars (out of 5).

You should be aware that stainless-steel pans can develop brown spots and "rainbowing," a discoloration that comes from being heated to temperatures above 500 degrees Fahrenheit. Cook's Illustrated recommends Cameo, Bar Keeper's Friend or Chef's Stainless Steel Liquid Cleaner to keep your pans shiny. All-Clad recommends Bar Keeper's Friend, which can be found in most supermarkets. As for the brown spots from polymerized oil, chef David Burke recommends placing stainless steel pans in a 400-degree oven for two hours; steadying the pan with a potholder; and flaking off grease with a spatula.

Celebrity pots and pans hold their own

All-Clad makes two lines of Emerilware: nonstick and uncoated stainless steel. In Cook's Illustrated tests, both the Emerilware Nonstick hard-anodized 12" skillet (*est. $200 for 10 pieces) and the Emerilware stainless 12" skillet proved to be middle-of-the-road performers. Meat cooked in the hard-anodized pan didn't brown well, and the stainless steel pan ran hot, requiring "a good deal of babysitting" from testers. The Emerilware Stainless saucepan fared slightly better, with testers calling it "heavy but well-weighted." Unlike All-Clad Stainless, Emerilware Stainless has a bottom-only tri-ply core, which makes it bottom-heavy. It's clear from reviews that the Emerilware can't compete with its parent company's top-of-the-line cookware. Among mid-range cookware lines, Cuisinart's Chef's Classic Stainless line (*est. $125 for 10 pieces) appears to be a better value than Emerilware.

Although it's only available through the Home Shopping Network (on TV or on the web), Frontgate catalogue or at Sams Club stores, reviews say Wolfgang Puck's Bistro Collection (*est. $160 for a 20-piece set) offers a good value. A 4-millimeter-thick aluminum disc in the bottom of the pots heats quickly and evenly, and editors at Cook's Illustrated say that the Wolfgang Puck skillets deliver "superior fond." They did notice a mysterious popping sound during heat-up and cool-down, however. Owners posting comments to Epinions are pleased with this cookware's performance and ease of cleanup. Cook's Illustrated says that the Wolfgang Puck Bistro 12-inch skillet browns nearly as well as an All-Clad pan that costs five times as much. The handles, however, can get hot. Wolfgang Puck's cookware is available in sets of varying numbers of pieces, though be aware that the count may somewhat misleadingly include utensils and, in some cases, wine accessories.

In Cook's Illustrated's tests, which included pan-searing, sautéing and crepe-making, Jamie Oliver's Professional Series by T-Fal (*est. $150 for a 9-piece set) performed nearly as well as All-Clad. Testers attribute its excellent browning and heat retention to its weight of nearly 4.5 pounds. Although many owners posting to Amazon.com are impressed with Oliver's cookware, some complain about durability and performance. Although Jamie Oliver's wares held their own in tests, the mid-range lines from KitchenAid or Cuisinart perform better and cost less.

Nonstick cookware

Despite the fact that most chefs and reviewers recommend uncoated cookware, about half of all shoppers prefer nonstick. Nonstick cookware comes in a variety of materials, all of which have a Teflon or Teflon-like interior coating (see the section on Teflon safety below). This coating allows you to use a little less fat, but it also impedes heat conduction, making it harder to brown foods. It also prevents fond from forming in the bottom of the pan.

While nonstick pans are said to be more convenient and easier to clean, manufacturers recommend hand-washing them, and you shouldn't stir foods with metal utensils. Even if you follow these instructions, the coating will eventually flake off. Unlike cast iron, nonstick cookware isn't "lifetime" cookware, so reviews say you're better off buying a budget nonstick skillet that you won't mind parting with when the time comes.

Kirkland Signature Hard-anodized cookware (*est. $175 for a 14-piece set) fares well in the single professional review we read, and it receives excellent ratings from owners posting to Epinions. The Kirkland set (a Costco exclusive) is made of hard-anodized aluminum with a Teflon interior coating. The stainless steel handles are heat-resistant, and the set is oven safe to 500 degrees (although it's not recommended for broiling). Like most non-stick cookware, it's not dishwasher safe. Kirkland Signature cookware can be hard to find: it's not available in every Costco store, and you can't buy it online. Kirkland Signature cookware is only available as a set.

Reviews say that the anodized aluminum Simply Calphalon Nonstick (*est. $150 for 8 pieces) , which has a double coating of Teflon, is an average performer. Testers at Cook's Illustrated found the skillet's handle to be "oddly shaped," and they wish the pan were bigger. Some owners report problems with the nonstick coating, which they say is prone to flaking. The Cuisinart Chef's Classic nonstick (*est. $100 for 7 pieces) , also appears to be prone to flaking, despite solid performance in professional tests.

If you're buying a cookware set, experts say you're better off buying uncoated cookware and supplementing it with a nonstick skillet or two. If you're in the market for an inexpensive nonstick skillet for sticky tasks, reviews say the WearEver Hard-Anodized skillet (*est. $30) is well balanced and a great value. The Cuisinart Chef's Classic Nonstick Hard Anodized Omelet Pan (*est. $35) impressed Cook's Illustrated testers with its "sturdiness and heft." Testers noted that inexpensive nonstick skillets tend to cook quickly, so you'll have to pay attention to delicate foods such as fish.

Reviews differ about the benefits of hard-anodized cookware, which uses an electrochemical process to alter the molecular structure of aluminum. As a result, the aluminum turns a dark gray and hardens. According to experts, this type of interior surface resists sticking to an extent, but it isn't truly nonstick. Many owners say that this cookware releases food less easily over time. Reviews indicate that a hard-anodized interior does, however, brown foods well.

Calphalon One (*est. $580 for a 10-piece set) , is touted as an advanced cookware line that combines the best qualities of traditional and nonstick cookware. Calphalon has infused anodized aluminum with a polymer that's said to release foods more easily than Teflon. Cook's Illustrated put these claims to the test and found that although Calphalon browned and seared well, eggs and flour-coated chicken stuck to the pan. Testers didn't notice any of "the special release properties that this pan is touted as having."

The latest on the Teflon debate

Manufacturers say that the Teflon coating in all nonstick cookware is FDA-approved and won't harm you if it flakes into your food. Despite this, there are lingering questions about Teflon's safety.

In 2005, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) issued a preliminary report that suggested PFOA (a chemical used as a processing aid in making Teflon products) may be a carcinogen. The EPA has not advised consumers to stop using Teflon products because PFOA doesn't end up in the products. According to an article in the May 2005 issue of MacLean's magazine, DuPont stated that their products do not contain PFOA. Fluoropolymer, a substance made up of PFOA, is sprayed on cookware to impart the nonstick Teflon coating. High temperatures seal the fluoropolymer, which destroys the PFOA, according to DuPont.

PFOA aside, Teflon has been shown to release fumes at high temperature (over 500 degrees Fahrenheit) that are toxic to birds. They are also at least somewhat harmful to humans: Studies have shown that humans can develop "polymer-fume flu," a common-cold like reaction, when exposed to an empty nonstick pan that's been heated for approximately 15 minutes in a closed room. Cook's Illustrated performed a similar test with a pan full of food and found that it's very difficult to overheat a nonstick skillet while cooking, because food releases water, cooling the pan. Testers were, however, able to achieve consistently high temperature using empty pans. DuPont concedes that an empty, overheated Teflon-coated pan will release harmful fumes. While the nonprofit Environmental Working Group says 325 degrees is enough to produce these fumes, DuPont says the true figure is closer to 660 degrees.

Most experts say you can safely use Teflon at home over a medium flame. At higher temperatures, opening a window will reduce any exposure to harmful fumes. Manufacturers tend to skate around the Teflon issue: When we contacted All-Clad, the manufacturer of Emerilware Nonstick cookware, a representative told us that the nonstick coating is made by DuPont but is not Teflon. A Calphalon representative told us the nonstick coating used in Simply Calphalon cookware is not Teflon either, but is made by Exxon-Mobil and is manufactured using Polytetrafluoroethylene (one of the chemicals at the center of the Teflon debate).

A number of lawsuits related to Teflon are pending against DuPont. Class action litigation on behalf of one-third of the nation's population is making its way through the federal courts. The suit alleges that DuPont has been aware that Teflon could cause harm for 20 years but concealed this fact from the public.

In December 2005, NPR reported that Dupont had agreed to pay $10 million in fines for suppressing 20-year-old documents suggesting an expectant mother had passed PFOA to her fetus. NPR also reported that while there was no conclusive evidence that PFOA caused cancer in humans, the EPA reported that the chemical does not break down readily and has been found in animals as far away as the Arctic Circle.

The EPA explains on its website that PFOA is very persistent in the environment. It has been found at very low levels in the blood of the general U.S. population and causes developmental problems and other adverse effects in laboratory animals. For the latest information on the EPA's ongoing studies of PFOA, see the EPA page on PFOA.

Cast Iron Cookware

If you're looking for a stick-resistant skillet but you want to avoid Teflon, experts say that cast iron is a great alternative. Uncoated cast iron skillets are inexpensive, and durability is unsurpassed. Cast iron has been in continuous use for hundreds of years with no reported safety issues. Cast iron retains heat beautifully and is oven-safe, so you can pan-sear a steak before finishing it in the oven. Several prominent chefs, including Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin, use cast iron to cook delicate fish fillets because it heats evenly, with fewer "hot spots" than other types of skillets.

Traditional cast iron skillets must be "seasoned" -- heated and rubbed with a small amount of oil -- before being used for the first time. Each time a pan is seasoned, oil and carbon residues bond with the iron, creating a slick surface. These days, you don't have to season a cast-iron skillet yourself; you can buy a pre-seasoned Lodge (*est. $27) cast iron skillet that has a coating equivalent to seasoning it yourself 20 times.

Although buying a pre-seasoned skillet will save you time, cast iron skillets still require more maintenance than stainless steel or nonstick cookware. Experts say you should avoid washing cast iron pans with soap. If there's residual fat in the pan, add flour and stir until it forms a paste that you can easily scrape out, then scrub the pan with a stiff brush to remove any food particles. If food remains stuck, add kosher salt and continue to scrub. Re-heat the empty pan over a low flame; add a few drops of unflavored oil; and evenly distribute oil with paper towels. Remove any excess oil with a fresh paper towel. Unlike nonstick cookware, cast-iron cookware improves over time, releasing foods more readily as the seasoning builds up.

Unlike uncoated cast-iron pans, enamel-coated cast iron pans can be soaked in soap and water for easier clean-up, and they don't require seasoning. They are, however, much more expensive than uncoated cast iron. After testing coated and uncoated cast iron skillets and Dutch ovens, editors at Cook's Illustrated found that the best skillets are made of uncoated cast iron, but the best Dutch ovens are enameled. The handles of cast iron pots and pans get hot, so many companies sell silicone handle protectors. You're more likely to cook acidic foods, such as wine and tomatoes, in a pot made for braising, such as a Dutch oven. You can press a coated cast iron Dutch oven into service as a pasta pot, but an uncoated pot can't do double duty.

In recent test of eight coated and uncoated cast iron skillets, Cook's Illustrated testers preferred the Lodge Logic pre-seasoned 12-Inch skillet (*est. $27) over all others, including Le Creuset, for its relatively large cooking surface and excellent performance. Testers prepared scrambled eggs, cornbread, steak, and fried chicken cutlets in each pan. Some foods stuck to the pan during the first use but released well on the second try. Testers wish the Lodge skillet had a longer handle, however.

With its array of brightly colored enamels, Le Creuset (*est. $100 for an 11-inch skillet) has been a favorite of home cooks for decades. After testing eight types of skillets, Marian Burros of the New York Times selected Le Creuset as her favorite, citing its imperviousness to acidic foods and ease of cleaning. Like all cast iron cookware, Le Creuset skillets are very heavy, but experts say that they are well balanced, with long handles and sloping sides that make it easy to scrape out semi-solid foods, such as scrambled eggs. Although Le Creuset has an excellent reputation, including dozens of positive owner-written reviews at Cooking.com and Amazon.com, we read some troubling reports about scratched and chipped enamel after routine use. Reviews at Epinions say that skillets are particularly vulnerable. At these prices, you want your cookware to last a lifetime. Experts say that you shouldn't use metal utensils in Le Creuset pans, and if you want to stack your cookware, you should cushion the blows from other pans with felt pads or paper plates.

A relative newcomer to the enameled cookware market, Staub (*est. $220 for an 8-quart cocotte, or Dutch oven) , has made a splash with its colorful skillets, braisers, mussel pots and teapots. According to the New York Times, Staub cookware is popular among chefs, some of whom send it straight into the dining room from the kitchen. The company claims that two innovations give it the edge over Le Creuset: Tiny spikes on the underside of the lids that help the juices condense, then drip back into the pot, and a double-coating of enamel. Although we found only a handful of reviews for Staub cookware at Amazon.com and Cooking.com, no one reports chipping or scratching from regular use. We hope that professional testers will include Staub in their upcoming reviews.

Important Features: Cookware

Here's what the experts say to look for when buying a cookware set:

• A nonreactive surface. Your best choices are stainless steel, seasoned cast iron, enamel or a quality nonstick surface.

• A core or base of aluminum or copper (or cast-iron interior construction) for better heat conduction.

• Handles that stay cool on the stovetop for a reasonable amount of time but are oven safe, such as cast iron or tubular stainless steel. It's also important to select cookware with handles you find comfortable and easy to handle. You can purchase oven-safe silicone handle covers separately.

• Check to see if the cookware is dishwasher safe. Hard anodized cookware is technically dishwasher-safe, but the manufacturer recommends hand washing. Non-stick cookware should be hand washed.

• Snug-fitting lids. This will help prevent spills and steam burns.

• Check the cookware's temperature rating if you want to use your cookware in the oven. Many recipes call for searing foods on the stovetop, then finishing in the oven. However, not all cookware is oven safe.

Our Consensus Report shows how many times products are top-ranked by reviewers included in our
All The Reviews Reviewed chart.

# of Picks	Model (with Retailer Links)	Details from Amazon.com
6	All-Clad Stainless Steel (Uncoated) (*est. $570 for a 9-piece set)	details
2	Cuisinart Chef's Classic nonstick skillet 10-inch (*est. $25) 12-inch (*est. $30) 12-inch with helper handle (*est. $40)	details
1 each	Analon Advanced Cookware , Bialetti Fusion , Calphalon Contemporary Nonstick 2½ Quart Shallow Saucepan , Calphalon One , Calphalon Kitchen Essentials , KitchenAid Hard-Base Nonstick , KitchenAid Gourmet Essentials Brushed Stainless , Le Creuset Round French Oven , Member's Mark Tri-Ply , Mario Batali Italian Essentials Pot , Rocco DiSpirito Cookware, T-Fal Jamie Oliver Professional Series, WearEver Excellence Stainless Steel, WearEver Hard-Anodized stainless steel , Revere Convenience , Wolfgang Puck Bistro Collection , Target Chefmate Round Enameled Cast-Iron Casserole, Gourmet Standard Tri-Ply , Kirkland Signature nonstick , T-Fal Soho, QVC Technique

All-Clad Stainless is clearly the most popular cookware, but also the most expensive. We didn’t find a lot of consensus in reviews for less expensive cookware, so we checked the picks in professional reviews against owner comments at Amazon.com and Epinions. Among uncoated sets, Cuisinart's Chef's Classic stainless (*est. $125 for 10 pieces) line gets high marks from over 100 owners posting to Amazon.com, plus good scores in professional reviews. Several reviews say celebrity cookware from Emeril Lagasse and Jamie Oliver compares well to other cookware, but Cuisinart Chef's Classic has similar performance and construction for less.

As for nonstick cookware, we did not find much consensus. Two reviews like nonstick skillets in the Cuisinart Chef's Classic nonstick line, but other reviews complain that the Teflon coating flakes off too easily. Kirkland Signature Hard-anodized nonstick cookware does well in professional reviews for durability, and owners like it as well. If you just want a good inexpensive nonstick skillet, Cook's Illustrated likes WearEver's Hard Anodized nonstick skillet.

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